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Maybe OP can change the planting angle to achieve his literati vision? Roots could prevent that but who knows?

Two suggestions. 1. Plant it lower in the pot and look for roots a bit higher. You can see, particularly in pic 2, that the root crown is exposed. 2. It may sound brutal but cut back hard on any of the trunks or branches that extend straight with little taper. @WNC Bonsai is right, these...

That looks like some of my Ulmus minor starts. They can get really corky. Took me a bit to get the ID correct. https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/very-corky-american-elm.36222/

Use a heat sink. I used to use 55 gal plastic barrels of water as bench supports. The heat during the day and slowly release the heat at night. Other materials could be used for the same effect.

"Can you give me a precise, accurate definition for the term literati bonsai?" No.

Get rid of the trees going nowhere that I've held on to for, why? Only keep trees that have a realistic plan and I enjoy working on.

Boxwood do surprisingly well up the road here. Were only a half zone cooler than you

Mine made it through the growing season. The one I cut survived but didn't push as much growth as the others. The wired one did not show additional feeder roots at the wire. Might take more than one year.

Healthy boxwood almost always will bud back when no green is left......but every once in a while will not. To be safe, leave a bit of green, or play the odds and don't.

Exactly so. Again, my apologies.

Yes of course. They're that third category, but it's the term the OP used. I assume he meant both deciduous and broadleaf evergreens, but I've made bad assumptions before.

It just occurred to me that there's nothing in the original post that says trees must be native to America, just "native to your region". My apologies for my biased assumptions.

Might be useful to develop a list of acceptable (actually native) broadleaf trees. American elm cedar elm winged elm slippery elm American hackberry American hornbeam a couple of dozen species of oaks, but NOT corkbark oak (Q suber) English oak (Q robur) Mountain maple Do you include shrubs...

Somewhere in there it says the pay is hourly. 24hrs a week, $28,000 to $30,000 works out to about $22 to $24 per hour.

Came across this today. Part time position at the University of Michigan. Pay listed as $28,000 to $30,000. One of our Michigan nuts must be interested, yes? https://careers.umich.edu/job_detail/271847/bonsai-assistant-horticulturist

First I would let it grow out. At this point you don't know where all the live material will show up and extend. Then you need to remove dead limbs/trunks, and decide which trunks to keep and which go. You have a credible main trunk, so you can go single trunk, or multiples. If multiple...

I was delighted to find blueberry varieties in a local nursery that only require 100 - 150 chill hours which means I can grow some too! Looking forward to catching up with y'all.

What invasive plants do you have problems with there?

After misidentifying my local street trees (is Triadica, not Tilia) I bought an authentic Tilia cordata from Brent at evergreengardenworks.com Nice size trunk for a 1 gal tree, and packaged so I could easily retrieve the tree without spilling packing peanuts everywhere. Thanks Brent!

Point taken, but I think most of the real nebari is buried. Very little of the visible root will remain in the end (I hope). What you can't see is a flare of fused root that expands to about 8 inches wide and deep. I hope it throws lateral roots high enough that I can cut another four inches...

A smaller trunk can work well as root-over-rock. This style works best with young stock, flexible roots that can grow and grip the stone. Adding the rock gives the illusion of a more massive base. Hardest part is finding the right stone.

Update on this one. Last spring I made another cut on the fused roots then potted up into a box. I plan to leave the roots alone for at least a couple of years hoping the mass of fused roots throw out plenty of feeders. Other than that it's letting branches thicken and keep the squirrels off...

Well, that's disappointing. Looks like it probably is Triadica, but you can see my confusion. Leaves are similar in shape. Bark may be wrong....these have rough, pealing bark. Did not pay enough attention to the flowers. Disappointing because it's used extensively as a street tree here, yet...

Thanks for the tip! Successful or not with the cuttings, I'll be ordering from Brent.

Perhaps I have the ID wrong. Here's some pics. Please let me know if you think it's NOT Tilia.