Search results

The thick, taperless trunk is the remnants of a sacrifice branch. I should have cut it back hard before selling, but I like to leave those things for the new own to decide. Cut it at any time....this crabapple seedling is super tough and shouldn't skip a beat.

@pandacular Thank you for the promotion! I greatly appreciate it. As I mentioned to you, I unfortunately won't be back to Seattle for a few weeks. I'd love to have you stop by when I get back so you can look through the nursery and see what might work for you. I'm excited to get this years...

I've found that some varieties are more likely to exhibit parental traits than others. However, factors such as proximity to other j. maples can definitely affect this. Alternately, I have some trees that are a total crap shoot and throw out every possible combination of leaves, colors, and...

Mine stay outside all winter, so I try to tuck them under a large cedar where they can get a tiny bit of moisture, but for the most part stay on the drier side. For me, it seems that the first year roots are more susceptible to rot than those that appear later. This seems to impact both rooted...

The US is a major recipient of trees, flowers, and plants from many countries in Asia..... all of them arriving with appropriate documentation through the USDA. It is quite an assumption that those on FB are somehow illegal or illegally imported, no matter how nice they appear.

I have seen this type of bark on several of my shirasawanum crosses. They seem to "bark up" quite young. It's not so much "rough bark" as more of a mature bark on small trees.....at least in the case of mine.

Siberian Elm (ulmus pumila) have naturalized where I'm from in Wyoming. In the past, they would routinely easily survive winters of -40F/C. I had them in pots (they'd often pop up in planters and such), and they always were fine after -20F. FWIW

FWIW, I find that the young (non-rough bark) stems root faster than many others......for me at least. I've not tried rooting branches that have already begun to develop the rough bark though.

@karen82 do you know if acer glabrum is native in your area.....since it looks very similar. Also, is there a chance that this might actually be hawthorn?

The dry air is most likely the culprit. Here in Seattle the autumn color can last for weeks.....but a couple dry and sunny days and our leaves look exactly the same as yours.

I've seen these at Sunnyside Nursery in Marysville. They seem to get them in around this time of year.

Even though Amur is better able to handle hard/high ph water, they still routinely develop chlorosis under those conditions. Being from Wyoming, I dealt with this also, but it was more evident in areas with very high ph. Check the ph of your water and then use a product to mitigate.

Hot and dry, more so than rosemary or lavender. I'm not saying that they wouldn't grow here, but it may be a continual struggle.

I know several people that keep maples here in hot, desert like climates (Texas, Arizona, Palm Springs), and though they struggle in the summer, they are able to maintain them by keeping them shaded and in the coolest spot possible.....always outside. Misting the leaves with water regularly...

@pandacular "Seattle Freeze" is a real thing and directly responsible for people leaving the area after relocating here for work. But it seems to have gotten better in the 17 years we've been here with the influx of more and more people from elsewhere. I suggest that you just keep being you, and...

I've been going through all of mine and cutting back lots of growth, especially in the tops since those branches have a tendency to get too large too fast. The good thing is that when they're pushing growth like that, they seem to respond quickly to the pruning.

I would personally remove some of the soil from the top of the root zone....just brush is away or whatever, but get some air moving into that area. Concerning trimming, my trees are beginning to put out a summer flush, so I'm pruning everything.....on some, just the apical branches, but on...

I personally grow dissectum from seed, so it's a possibility that this is the case with this tree. It's my understanding that dissectums are next to impossible to air-layer and/or grow from cuttings. Beyond that, I'm not seeing any roots or basal flare, so I'm wondering if the tree might be...

Is it possible that the trees experienced excessive drought/dry period last year. I've seen this happen the following year after landscape trees went through a drought period.

Mine is an absolute water hog, colonizes the pot with roots in a single season, and typically looks ratty once the weather warms up. But I still like it. Those crispy leaves are most likely its protest of your departure.

There is a weeping form, 'Pendula', and at least a couple weeping selections. Perhaps those are a better option.

As @Hack Yeah! said, I have Kingsville in the ground, and it often sends out sports that are different from the selection.

I am personally in the process of defoliating all of my larger maples....and cutting back some others. I was already having interior and lower branches that were dropping leaves and getting ready to die. New buds already pushing and extending on those that I did 2-3 weeks ago.

My vote goes for acer ginnala as well (Amur maple) I know that they're considered invasive in some parts of the country.

For those of you that are interested and/or watching my auctions, I've posted more this evening. Of note, there are many "lots" of trees for forests and groups. These are not seedlings, but older trees.....though some of them are rather peculiar. Thank you.