I am new to this forum, and a bit new to bonsai. I used to do it as a kid but most everything died because of lack of me knowing, lack of patience etc. At 73, I would like to try it again. I live in NE Oregon and we have below 0 winters sometimes. A few questions for now...I have very poor South facing light in my house so have decided to use the adjustable, table top grow lights so the specimens will get enough light. Does that concept seem reasonable? I am looking at a started Japanese Blk Pine on the net, but it has pretty deep wire marks on it, so I hesitate to buy it. Wire marks should be avoided, correct? Can you tell me of several fast growing ( remember I'm 73 ) specimens that I might start with to get me going. I bought a Ming Aralia with a big stump trunk the other day at a nursery and like it even after I trimmed it up. All help is appreciated. Thanks, Peter
wire marks etc
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bonsai-ben
Mame
Buy trees that live outdoors in your climate. Why buy grow lights? Just costing you money to give your trees really bright shade. Native species to your area are excellent bonsai. What happens when you asked your local club or a local dealer that also sells trees? What was their advice?
At age 73 as you ask for something 'fast growing', I dont think a JBP is what you are after.....
At age 73 as you ask for something 'fast growing', I dont think a JBP is what you are after.....
bonsai-ben
Mame
Grow lights are meant for marijuana.
I know, many will disagree here. Nothing competes with the sun. When you google grow lights, you're reading about pot rooms. The reason people dont grow extremely high quality bonsai inside, is the same reason we dont grow white pines in Florida. We prefer things that grow in our climate, instead.Think about age 73. Now you are 75. Now you have 25 trees. Now you have to keep bringing them in and out. Why? A lot of men your age exit bonsai because of the "work" of moving the trees.
Indoor, your tree will live. Probably. Outdoors, it will *grow* and *thrive*. If you want something to grow fast, indoor light is the opposite way to do it.
What species should you go for? I dont know. I'm zone 9, I'm literally zero help there. What I hope you take away from my typing is that trees are meant to be outdoors, that's where they grow the best, and stick to species in your area.
"indoor bonsais" are something that is advertised to the novice to get them interested in something that might not force them to be outside away from their smartphones.
Clicio
Masterpiece
I agree. Even here in the tropics "indoors bonsai" are very difficult to keep.
WHEN they go outside, IF they go outside, they take their cellphones with them...
The town of 10K that I live in is at 2800 foot elevation. I do have some good specimens growing wild here I think. We have a Lodgepole pine ( pinus contorta I think ) that one can easily dig and bonsai. One question...if I was to dig one of these and plant in a bonsai pot, will it do ok during the winter (below 0 at times) or would I need to protect the roots etc?
Also no one has replied to my question about wire ring grooves in the trunk...good or not good question. Thanks, P
Also no one has replied to my question about wire ring grooves in the trunk...good or not good question. Thanks, P
ajm55555
Chumono
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I respectully disagree.
Peter, have a look at Nigel Saunder's channel on YouTube. He lives in Canada and has many tropical bonsais.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxWc7cn-M-22gie8oPslLcA
It's not the same to grow tropicals in Michigan or pines in Florida. The first road is much easier of course. That's why they sell tropical plants at every latitude for indoor use but won't sell larches in Florida.
If you have enough light they will thrive with no problem ;-)
Peter, have a look at Nigel Saunder's channel on YouTube. He lives in Canada and has many tropical bonsais.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxWc7cn-M-22gie8oPslLcA
ajm55555
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It depends on the species and the depth of the marks. They will heal fine and relatively quickly on some fast growing trees as far as I know, like tropical plants.
I would say don't worry if they're not too deep. The deeper they are, the longer it will take them to disappear.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I think you and @Mike Corazzi should start a "grumpy old man" bonsai club!
He's about half of 140 too!
Lol! But seriously....
Sounds like you'se would get along!
There's your introduction!
I met a 74 year old Bonsai enthusiast last night who doesnt look a day over 50!
Welcome to Crazy!
If there is anything more directly beneficial to my trees than Bonsai Knowledge.......
It's Wisdom gained from dudes who been around the block!
And for that I sincerely thank you for showing up!
I look forward to watching yet another person, fall into this world which is, no matter what our wisdom, always so unbelievably enlightening!
Oregon is chock- full with the goods...
And last night I derived that though Oregon is just as different climate-wise to me, as Florida or NC, the reason the Oregon trees I leave out in the cold-as-balls weather here live and the ones from F and NC do not....
Is simply because Oregon's climate is so conducive to healthy Flora, they acclimate like. ....."hmm....ok!"
Fully strong enough to get ripped and thrown on ice!
Which is to say, take advantage of that health!
There is a reason Bonsai Villages pop up where they do!
Sorce
He's about half of 140 too!
Lol! But seriously....
Sounds like you'se would get along!
There's your introduction!
I met a 74 year old Bonsai enthusiast last night who doesnt look a day over 50!
Welcome to Crazy!
If there is anything more directly beneficial to my trees than Bonsai Knowledge.......
It's Wisdom gained from dudes who been around the block!
And for that I sincerely thank you for showing up!
I look forward to watching yet another person, fall into this world which is, no matter what our wisdom, always so unbelievably enlightening!
Oregon is chock- full with the goods...
And last night I derived that though Oregon is just as different climate-wise to me, as Florida or NC, the reason the Oregon trees I leave out in the cold-as-balls weather here live and the ones from F and NC do not....
Is simply because Oregon's climate is so conducive to healthy Flora, they acclimate like. ....."hmm....ok!"
Fully strong enough to get ripped and thrown on ice!
Which is to say, take advantage of that health!
There is a reason Bonsai Villages pop up where they do!
Sorce
ajm55555
Chumono
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Agreed! Plus, you're not so old and you have plenty of time to enjoy some nice results from your work ;-)
Josh88
Shohin
I have a number of Lodgepole Pine and the only winter protection I provide is moving them off the benches and onto the ground for winter. Using native species is the way to go in my opinion. As far as wire marks go, I think they are far more damaging in the long run on deciduous trees that don't bark up well. On most pines the bark will eventually make the scars unnoticeable, but this does take some time and will depend on the age of the tree. I have not been doing bonsai nearly as long as many on the forum here, but this is the best input I can share.
MrFancyPlants
Omono
I grow this willow leaf ficus under lights during the winter, and it developed pretty fast from a cutting. It seems to do just as well indoors as out for me, but it took a while to get the indoor setup working well for me. I grow in an aquarium and have LED lights off amazon as well as some supplemental T5, and a cpu fan to keep the air moving.
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/willow-leaf-f-cutting.11461/page-2
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/willow-leaf-f-cutting.11461/page-2
shinmai
Chumono
My two cents: I'm 63, and got involved in bonsai just a couple of years ago. I came home from my first workshop, and when my wife asked me what I'd learned I replied that I learned that if I was going to be really good at this, I should have started when I was twelve. I've decided that what really interests me are trees with flowers and maybe fruit. I have what's basically a three point strategy--first, getting my base foundation of knowledge using inexpensive trees or nursery stock; second, when I feel I'm ready, acquire a small number of 'specimen' [read 'expensive'] trees to care for, and third, getting my now four-year old grandson interested/addicted to bonsai, so I have someone to leave my trees to when I get to the end of the road.
And I have to respectfully throw the bullshit flag as to the disparagement of grow lights as being for pot farms. I have ficus, bougainvillea, Natal plum, lavender star flower, and African sumac under lights, and they are thriving and growing like weeds. Yes, it's true that native species have self-selected for their climate and soil, and yes, things grow fastest in the ground--but I submit that bonsai is precisely about getting trees of any and all kinds to thrive in an unnatural environment. It's called a bonsai pot.
I don't necessarily connect all the same dots that Sorce does, but with regard to his post, "Yeah, what he said!"
And I have to respectfully throw the bullshit flag as to the disparagement of grow lights as being for pot farms. I have ficus, bougainvillea, Natal plum, lavender star flower, and African sumac under lights, and they are thriving and growing like weeds. Yes, it's true that native species have self-selected for their climate and soil, and yes, things grow fastest in the ground--but I submit that bonsai is precisely about getting trees of any and all kinds to thrive in an unnatural environment. It's called a bonsai pot.
I don't necessarily connect all the same dots that Sorce does, but with regard to his post, "Yeah, what he said!"
bonsai-ben
Mame
Up there, it looks good. Truly no offense. In the full sun in Florida you'll have internodes on top of each other and leaves 1/4 the size. Nigel does grow a lot of topicals in a greenhouse in Canada. That's also why his trees never grow much between those 3 months in between his videos. 3 or 4 nodes from a few leggy branches is not a tree thriving. That is a tree staying alive best it can in the conditions of which its given. It can be done, but generally nobody will invest the proper funds in it except Dustin Mann (who eventually moved to Florida anyway!!!
)
MrFancyPlants
Omono
I hadn’t updated with a photo since I got the new LEDs figured out. I turn the white lights most of the way down and the blue lights up all the way.Up there, it looks good. Truly no offense. In the full sun in Florida you'll have internodes on top of each other and leaves 1/4 the size.
Attachments
Mike Corazzi
Masterpiece
I ain't GRUMPY you silly bastige!
Now GET OFF MY DAMN LAWN !!!!
And don't toss no damn akadama in my grave !!!
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
#bonsaipeopleareawesome
Sorce
Sorce
I've found that caring for an apple tree on dwarfing rootstock serves rather nicely as a way to tide me over until my bonsai grow in. They're a nice way to practice certain techniques such as wiring and pruning, and if you keep it in a pot you're also able to practice training its roots.
The wife admitted I may have gone a bit overboard when my collection passed a dozen, though.
The wife admitted I may have gone a bit overboard when my collection passed a dozen, though.
Clicio
Masterpiece
And don't toss no damn akadama in my grave !!!
That's THE MOST funny last wish I've ever heard!
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
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@Peter44 - Welcome to the bonsai hobby. I'm 63 and still starting tree seedlings, and I have every intention of being around to exhibit them when they come into their prime, in 40 years, I'll only be 103, why not? Start projects like you are going to live to 110. Look to the future.
Actually, have been doing bonsai a while, about 40 years, but only the last 15 to 20 years was I more serious about it. Earlier I was just goofing around. Right now none of the trees I have have been with me more than 25 years. Trees come, trees go (sometimes died), I have sold, traded or given away trees. My entire collection of somewhere near 100 sticks in pots has changed over the years. Nothing I have now do I expect to still have in another 20 years, I will have moved things on. That is actually part of the plan. So have fun, enjoy the hobby.
Indoors, try to grow subtropicals and tropicals listed as part shade or deep shade loving. Do visit your marijuana grow shops, they have the latest and greatest in indoor lighting, reason: That is an industry with money, they can fund the research. What is considered bright enough for marijuana is about half sun to three quarters sun, in terms of what a tree would like. Use that as a guide. Tomatoes and Peppers also need the same amount of light as marijuana, so if your state does not have legal recreational pot, the clerk may insist on talking about bright enough for peppers, etc.
Indoors, I like the florist's azalea, they are a series of subtropical azalea hybrids that are very easy to induce bloom. Often they will bloom twice a year, spring and autumn. You can usually get a nice looking tree in less than 5 years from one picked up in the floral department at your grocery store, florists shop or big box hardware store like Lowes. The florist's azalea will be where they sell the orchids. These are great as indoor in winter, outdoor for summer trees. They work indoors year round too, though the season changes outdoors will help set blooms. They don't need, don't want to experience cold below 35 F. Frost can kill them.
Azalea found in the landscape nurseries usually will be winter hardy in your area and should be grown outdoors year round. These will be found where the bushes, junipers and other shrubbery are sold. These will not appreciate being indoors for any length of time. Bring them in to show off the blooms, but back outside within the week would be best.
Ficus, Malpighia, Eugenia, Jaboticaba, Brazilian Rain tree, Serissa, and dozens of others are relatively quick growing trees that can do well indoors year round. Bougainvillea is another great subtropical tree for indoor bonsai. Does great in marijuana level light. (LOL)
Pines, no pine, no member of the genus Pinus will do well indoors, under lights year round. Even indoors for more than a week or two will be rough for them. Pinus contorta, your local Lodgepole pine is a great species for bonsai with a proven good track record. Taking the pot off the self and setting it on the ground for the winter is all your locally native pine, and other trees should need for winter protection. I believe Japanese Black Pine (JBP) is probably fully winter hardy in your area too. But I am in Chicago area, and can't speak for your climate. JBP is not quite winter hardy in my USDA zone 5b area, they will do fine for me for a few winters, but then we'll have a bitter cold winter that will wipe them out. If you are zone 6b or warmer, you should have no trouble at all with JBP outdoors year round. Other good pines are Scott's pine, & mugo pine, are all good bonsai subjects. JBP can be quite quick to develop as you can get 2 flushes of growth per year.
Junipers, all junipers make good bonsai - Procumbens juniper, Shimpaku juniper, and its varieties Itogawa and Kishu are the ''silly putty'' of the bonsai world. Any shape, any style can be created with a juniper. All are full time outdoor trees and get along fine just set on the ground for winter in my area, should be bullet proof in your area.
The only juniper that can survive indoors is Juniper procumbens - all the rest need a hard cold winter rest and full blazing sun. Procumbens juniper will really do much better outdoors, but if you must have a conifer indoors, it is the one that will be more likely to survive. The Monterey Cypress might work as an indoor year round tree - but it also has a reputation of being a little tricky to grow indoors.
Hope I've given you some things to consider.
Actually, have been doing bonsai a while, about 40 years, but only the last 15 to 20 years was I more serious about it. Earlier I was just goofing around. Right now none of the trees I have have been with me more than 25 years. Trees come, trees go (sometimes died), I have sold, traded or given away trees. My entire collection of somewhere near 100 sticks in pots has changed over the years. Nothing I have now do I expect to still have in another 20 years, I will have moved things on. That is actually part of the plan. So have fun, enjoy the hobby.
Indoors, try to grow subtropicals and tropicals listed as part shade or deep shade loving. Do visit your marijuana grow shops, they have the latest and greatest in indoor lighting, reason: That is an industry with money, they can fund the research. What is considered bright enough for marijuana is about half sun to three quarters sun, in terms of what a tree would like. Use that as a guide. Tomatoes and Peppers also need the same amount of light as marijuana, so if your state does not have legal recreational pot, the clerk may insist on talking about bright enough for peppers, etc.
Indoors, I like the florist's azalea, they are a series of subtropical azalea hybrids that are very easy to induce bloom. Often they will bloom twice a year, spring and autumn. You can usually get a nice looking tree in less than 5 years from one picked up in the floral department at your grocery store, florists shop or big box hardware store like Lowes. The florist's azalea will be where they sell the orchids. These are great as indoor in winter, outdoor for summer trees. They work indoors year round too, though the season changes outdoors will help set blooms. They don't need, don't want to experience cold below 35 F. Frost can kill them.
Azalea found in the landscape nurseries usually will be winter hardy in your area and should be grown outdoors year round. These will be found where the bushes, junipers and other shrubbery are sold. These will not appreciate being indoors for any length of time. Bring them in to show off the blooms, but back outside within the week would be best.
Ficus, Malpighia, Eugenia, Jaboticaba, Brazilian Rain tree, Serissa, and dozens of others are relatively quick growing trees that can do well indoors year round. Bougainvillea is another great subtropical tree for indoor bonsai. Does great in marijuana level light. (LOL)
Pines, no pine, no member of the genus Pinus will do well indoors, under lights year round. Even indoors for more than a week or two will be rough for them. Pinus contorta, your local Lodgepole pine is a great species for bonsai with a proven good track record. Taking the pot off the self and setting it on the ground for the winter is all your locally native pine, and other trees should need for winter protection. I believe Japanese Black Pine (JBP) is probably fully winter hardy in your area too. But I am in Chicago area, and can't speak for your climate. JBP is not quite winter hardy in my USDA zone 5b area, they will do fine for me for a few winters, but then we'll have a bitter cold winter that will wipe them out. If you are zone 6b or warmer, you should have no trouble at all with JBP outdoors year round. Other good pines are Scott's pine, & mugo pine, are all good bonsai subjects. JBP can be quite quick to develop as you can get 2 flushes of growth per year.
Junipers, all junipers make good bonsai - Procumbens juniper, Shimpaku juniper, and its varieties Itogawa and Kishu are the ''silly putty'' of the bonsai world. Any shape, any style can be created with a juniper. All are full time outdoor trees and get along fine just set on the ground for winter in my area, should be bullet proof in your area.
The only juniper that can survive indoors is Juniper procumbens - all the rest need a hard cold winter rest and full blazing sun. Procumbens juniper will really do much better outdoors, but if you must have a conifer indoors, it is the one that will be more likely to survive. The Monterey Cypress might work as an indoor year round tree - but it also has a reputation of being a little tricky to grow indoors.
Hope I've given you some things to consider.
