inaba shidare 10' project

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D

Deleted member 21616

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Hi All,

I know this is not bonsai, but I'm confident this is the best place to get help :)

I have reserved a field-grown inaba shidare (2-3 feet tall), which I will be picking up in April. I will be planting it in the ground (either right away or eventually, see below) in my yard, in Montreal. I was told this species does well in the ground in our climate.

Question: I would like to develop "nebari" and thicken the trunk in general of this tree. Many inaba shidare trees that I have seen stand on a straight, skinny, 6 foot pole, which I don't like. Any tips or tricks?

I thought of screwing it down to a tile and planting it in a pot for 1-2 years as we do with bonsai?

Thank you!
Derek
 

0soyoung

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Commercially produced cultivars of acer palmatum are sure to be grafted onto a generic species root stock. Further, the roots of any field grown acer palmatum will be a mess.

So you need to think in terms of air-layering the cultivar, but there may be issues making this difficult/impossible. Many are weak on their own roots. Worse yet, many are 'very difficult' to root. I have, for example a 'Higsayama' that I have tried to air layer every year for more than 5 years now. It is always the same story: roots start to develop and then the cambium at the bottom of the girdle dies and, in turn, causes the layer to quickly desiccate. I've also tried to root cuttings from this tree to no avail.

I have no idea how amenable 'Inaba Shidare; is to rooting/layering, but it is a red dissectum which, as a general rule of thumb, will likely be weak on its own roots. So I suggest that you get one only because you have a sunny spot where you would like to have it in your landscape. Then experiment trying to air layer a branch.

In other words, I don't think this is the best choice for bonsai purposes. Better, IMHO, would be a generic green acer palmatum, such as used for root stock. Easy to root/layer, vigorous grower, nice leaf size, and inexpensive (and can often be found in big box garden centers).
 
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Commercially produced cultivars of acer palmatum....

Thank you for your help!

I don't actually plan on turning this into a smaller bonsai. I'm aiming for a 6-10' tall Niwaki style (as in the photo below), but would like to apply some bonsai-type techniques (or any techniques, really) in order to get those roots flaring, and also lifting out through the surface of the ground. I would also like to thicken the trunk as much as possible. At this point, the best I have come up with is planting the tree directly onto a tile to promote horizontal outward-direction root growth, but I'd love to hear all the advice anybody has to offer :)


1.jpg
 

0soyoung

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I love that pic from the Portland Japanese Garden (also love that place)! I have three red dissectums like 'Inabe Shidare' (I don't know the specific cultivar) in my yard. They must be in full sun for several hours a day to remain healthy. 'Tsukushigata' gives nice backlit color too. In reflected light, leaves are chocolate red with green veins - transmits red in a setting like the pic.

You might invest in a copy of Vertree's book since I think you are on the brink of a potentially serious addiction (it is not possible to have just one ;)).
 
D

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I love that pic from the Portland....

Thanks for your input!

I've got that book!

There are only a handful of Japanese Maples that have proven themselves tough enough to do very well in Montreal's climate: crimson queen, red dragon, veridis, waterfall, and the Inabe Shidare.

This isn't my first big tree. It is only the first big tree I really want to 'work' on as I do with my bonsai.

Thanks!
D
 

0soyoung

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I overlooked your being in Quebec!

I've noticed that Iseli in Oregon has a line they call Jack Frost - might check it out.

Since you've already got the book, you likely can get more help from the maples forum at UBC (maybe you are already there and I haven't noticed).

In your OP you mentioned an unattractive straight standard. If you can get a young one, the standard can be bent around a heavy bamboo pole, a length of galvanized pipe, or similar, for a few years to give it some movement.
 

ysrgrathe

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Siting makes a big difference. I really enjoy when sunlight shines through the canopy of a Japanese maple -- so if you can, place the tree where you can view the soon through it at least part of the day.
 
D

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I overlooked your being in Quebec!

I've noticed that Iseli in Oregon has a line they call Jack Frost - might check it out.

Since you've already got the book, you likely can get more help from the maples forum at UBC (maybe you are already there and I haven't noticed).

In your OP you mentioned an unattractive straight standard. If you can get a young one, the standard can be bent around a heavy bamboo pole, a length of galvanized pipe, or similar, for a few years to give it some movement.

Wow! I did not know about that forum, and i have some galvanized pipe that's a great idea!!! Thank you!

D
 
D

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Siting makes a big difference. I really enjoy when sunlight shines through the canopy of a Japanese maple -- so if you can, place the tree where you can view the soon through it at least part of the day.

Fantastic idea, thanks for the heads up! I'm glad you mentioned this now before I planted the tree!

I may have to sit on the floor for the first decade though... haha

Thank you
D
 

ysrgrathe

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Hah I didn't notice the autocorrect error, glad the message came through! Yeah if you walk around gardens it is amazing what a difference the angle of the light makes. Japanese maple leaves are translucent and especially the colored varieties have more depth and highlights when the sun shines through them. The same tree looks very different with reflected vs. transmitted light.
 

Japonicus

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Thank you for your help!

I don't actually plan on turning this into a smaller bonsai. I'm aiming for a 6-10' tall Niwaki style (as in the photo below), but would like to apply some bonsai-type techniques (or any techniques, really) in order to get those roots flaring, and also lifting out through the surface of the ground. I would also like to thicken the trunk as much as possible. At this point, the best I have come up with is planting the tree directly onto a tile to promote horizontal outward-direction root growth, but I'd love to hear all the advice anybody has to offer :)


View attachment 178066
Good luck I would like to do the same with a Mother tree to be.
Funny, I have that picture as my desktop pic :) and added the Vertrees book @Osoyoung linked to my cart.
Nice price too. Thanks!
 
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