Akadama, Pumice with Humic & Fulvic acids

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I thought it was climates that had a freeze/thaw cycle that would be worst for 100% akadama?
 

Waltron

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I’ve sprinkled humic acid into some repotting media and I’m not sure if it’s done anything. I haven’t kept close watch or had control for True Science Rigor. This is something I tend to do on new repottings into extremely sterile volcanic soils and I’ll skip it when reusing old soil or when I have a partial organic mix.

I do make regular use of mycorrhizal supplements and get specific about ecto vs. endo species associations. (I don’t use the generic/mixed myco products.)

My results speak for themselves, though: I see great vigor, superb handling of stressful conditions, and nearly zero tree loss. The few seedlings I have recently lost were already compromised by external factors and then never came back after an unusually harsh winter.

Only my most temperamental species (maple and beech) have shown environmental stress, but that’s to be expected with full sun in 90°F and hotter periods. I’ve not seen water stress, so I’m confident my soils and micro-biotic conditions are excellent.

Regarding humic acid in particular—I like the critique that it’s bunk. If I correctly recall, the suggestion is it’s not a real thing and doesn’t naturally exist. The product is claimed to be entirely manmade and is only created through extreme chemical reactions as leftover material from consuming the remainder of soils. I’m not a soil scientist.

reid, curious to know what you do for water. hose? rain? filter?
 

coh

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I thought it was climates that had a freeze/thaw cycle that would be worst for 100% akadama?
People claim freeze/thaw cycles turn akadama to mush but I haven't seen evidence of that yet and I've been experimenting with it for about 3 years. We have a lot of freeze thaw cycles. I don't use 100% akadama for anything, generally use something similar to the Boon mix.

The issue I can see in Florida...akadama is highly water retentive. What does Florida get a lot of...rain. So, maybe too much water around the roots with 100% akadama.
 
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People claim freeze/thaw cycles turn akadama to mush but I haven't seen evidence of that yet and I've been experimenting with it for about 3 years. We have a lot of freeze thaw cycles. I don't use 100% akadama for anything, generally use something similar to the Boon mix.

The issue I can see in Florida...akadama is highly water retentive. What does Florida get a lot of...rain. So, maybe too much water around the roots with 100% akadama.
I used to live in FL and believe there's validity to the fact that akadama likes to dry out a bit between water or it starts to break down more quickly based on my experience. Also notice a huge difference in akadama brands. A cheaper brand versus double red line or another better brand is like comparing oil and water.
 

Waltron

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wonder what Smoke's current philosophy on humic acid is after another season in the books? i tried it due to his logical reasoning he covered somewhere along the way.. certainly didn't hurt anything. I think it helped, but that's just my current thought on the topic with no hard evidence. I tried a product called humax, potent stuff. now ive read somewhere you can actually OD on humic acid. *cough mike cough* haha jk but somewhere i read a plant can od on HA, or maybe it said that too much HA caused some other problem i cant remember. now i see reid is saying its hog wash nonsense. I think smoke's idea was that it helps the plant uptake nutrients, in several ways but mainly increases the uptake via misting leafs.

akadama, well Dr soil mark scott has dropped a lot of knowledge on the subject. you should go read his soil thingy. my personal thought on akadama is that it is pretty good, not necessary, but its good shit. i think its great (in my application) for smaller trees, (due to cost) that are a bit finicky. main problem ive seen with it, is its very light weight. need a heavy pot, tree, or other additions. does hold a lot of water, does break down. does grow great roots.
 

Anthony

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Isn't Akadama, a material that is breaking down into pumice and clay ?

What happens when your tree ages and the core is filled with clay ---------- do you continue to
hose out the interior of the core ?

How many professionals have been growing their plants for say over 30 + years ?

Or do we ignore the Old Timers who may not have - well designed show material ---- but have
healthy trees ?

Would it not make sense to find the folk with say 50 to 60 years of growing healthy trees?

Just wondering.
Anthony
 

Eric Group

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I will say this much, in the spring I repotted several trees in 100% Akadama. I am not at all happy with the results. I am not at all into using "those new-fangled humic/fulvic acid and beneficial bacterial and fungi supplements".
I haven't had good results with straight Akadama either...
 
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Eric Group

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Since we're experiencing similar results, DE is not doing it for me either.
Nope, never liked it much... Akadama with pumice and lava does fine... pumice mixed with organic does well.. potting soil... but straight Akadama or DE or turface... not good for me.
 

coh

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The only soil component I've used at 100% is pumice - have had a couple of collected trees that arrived in 100% pumice and they did great. I know every so often you'll hear about someone growing some species in 100% akadama (usually in Japan) and I did just pot up a couple of small air layers in 100% akadama, but for more established trees...100% of anything seems risky to me. What if you get a bad batch of akadama (too soft) for example, you could have a mess on your hands. Probably less of a problem if it is mixed with more stable components like pumice and lava.
 

Vin

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Before this thread started I had already decided to only use three and four component soil mixes for the next couple years and see how it goes.
 
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