Flowers 2017

drew33998

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Nicely done, Princess Mikasa?
There are a few, very few blue orchids. Some of the Australian terrestrials like the genus Thelymetria, or sun orchids have the pigment delphinium, which is true blue. Sadly they are difficult to grow. Vanda, and most of commonly available orchids only have anthocyanin pigments, which can look blue-ish as in the Vanda above, to purple, to pink, and when layered over a yellow background can give orange to scarlet red. But never gets to true blue. Cattleya blue is actually more a gray violet, quite disappointing in reality. Your Orchid Trivia for the Day.
Thats what i meant to say but i am a part time hobbyist on the orchids! Yes it is princess mikasa. Probably my favortie that i have is dendrobium thyrsiflorum. It hasnt bloomed for me or even thrived for that matter. I think it needs a cooler median temp than what i can currently give it. Other than that its phals, 1 vanda, the dendro, and an onci noid that my grandmother gave me a keiki from before she passed about 5 years ago. Its getting close to blooming age now i think. 6 pseudobulbs. From what i remember hers was all eyllow with red throat. Might be wildcat.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Thats what i meant to say but i am a part time hobbyist on the orchids! Yes it is princess mikasa. Probably my favortie that i have is dendrobium thyrsiflorum. It hasnt bloomed for me or even thrived for that matter. I think it needs a cooler median temp than what i can currently give it. Other than that its phals, 1 vanda, the dendro, and an onci noid that my grandmother gave me a keiki from before she passed about 5 years ago. Its getting close to blooming age now i think. 6 pseudobulbs. From what i remember hers was all eyllow with red throat. Might be wildcat.

Nice collection Drew.
I had and used to bloom a number of Dendrobiums related to yours. Dendrobium thyrsiflorum is simple if you live in a wet-dry monsoon climate, tricky elsewhere. Indoors, the sunniest spot possible. Outdoors, at least 4 hours of direct sun, or very bright dappled sun. It likes more light than what a Cattleya would like. Might take all day full sun if there is a constant breeze. Because of its high light demand, I prefer to grow them outdoors for the summer. Under lights doesn't work as well.

Grow in an open mix that does hold some water. I like a hanging basket. When actively growing usually April thru to October, it wants water, daily. The basket keeps air to the roots. Fertilize from beginning of new growth in spring until about 4 or 5 months have passed, I stop fertilizing nobile & densiflora type Dendrobiums about Aug 1. Stop fertilizer before new growth is mature. You will know when growth is mature, the growing tip becomes blunt, and ends in a single leaf, instead of a tuft of leaves. Or, if you are not sure, figure a 3 - 4 months with fertilizer, first half of the vegetative cycle.

When night temperatures begin dropping into the middle 40's F (+4 to +8 C) dry the plant out. If it is a mature plant it can handle a total drought for 4 or more months. Whenever it is cool, below 50 F (+8 C) keep it dry. Bring inside or into protection before danger of frost. Keep dry and sunny. Sometime after the first of the new year you will see new growth emerge from the base of the plant, let it get above the mix, maybe half an inch (1.0+ cm) and then resume watering and fertilizer. New growth is a sign that it is time to grow, and water will be needed. Normally I try to keep the dry spell from November 15 to February 15, though the dry spell should not end until you see new vegetative growth start. I have had some stay dormant from November to May before they wake up. Some don't seem to take a rest at all. Individual results will vary even within the species. Forcing a minimum of 2 months of drought seems to keep them blooming on schedule.

It is supposed to be a spring bloomer. though sometimes plants don't read the books, so they do what they want. Do try to observe the maturity of the current year's new pseudobulbs and use that to decide if it is time to be dry or time to be wet. Where it comes from, the dry season will be 3 to 4 months, but fog and dew at night can often provide moisture, so if you see pseudobulbs getting real wrinkly, give them a light misting or let them catch some rain. Young and small plants will need water during the dry season. If it is less than 5 pseudobulbs consider it a young plant. Cold alone can set flower buds, but do not frost this plant. If you don't get cold, the dry spell can set the flower buds, so if you don't drop below 60 F. at night the dry spell can set the flower buds. If you see flower buds form during the dry spell, ignore them, don't start watering. The plant likes to flower before the rains come, reason, the insect pollinators can't fly well in the heavy rain. So don't start watering until the flower buds are fully developed and just about to open, then give it a good soak, keep dry after that soak until new growth appears at the base of the plant.

Whew, a lot to read. Looks complicated. Most of this can be solved by where you hang your basket of Dendrobium. I move mine twice a year. Out in spring, back in late October. It isn't difficult once you get the pattern down. Good luck, and may you get the thousands of flowers a specimen thyrsiflorum can give you.
 

Carol 83

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Last winter, when I was bored and ordering spring flowers from a catalog, I ordered a pomegranate just out of curiosity. What I received was literally a twig. I didn't want to mess with the hassle of returning it, so I stuck it in a pot. I guess sometimes size doesn't matter;).pom.jpg
 

drew33998

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Nice collection Drew.
I had and used to bloom a number of Dendrobiums related to yours. Dendrobium thyrsiflorum is simple if you live in a wet-dry monsoon climate, tricky elsewhere. Indoors, the sunniest spot possible. Outdoors, at least 4 hours of direct sun, or very bright dappled sun. It likes more light than what a Cattleya would like. Might take all day full sun if there is a constant breeze. Because of its high light demand, I prefer to grow them outdoors for the summer. Under lights doesn't work as well.

Grow in an open mix that does hold some water. I like a hanging basket. When actively growing usually April thru to October, it wants water, daily. The basket keeps air to the roots. Fertilize from beginning of new growth in spring until about 4 or 5 months have passed, I stop fertilizing nobile & densiflora type Dendrobiums about Aug 1. Stop fertilizer before new growth is mature. You will know when growth is mature, the growing tip becomes blunt, and ends in a single leaf, instead of a tuft of leaves. Or, if you are not sure, figure a 3 - 4 months with fertilizer, first half of the vegetative cycle.

When night temperatures begin dropping into the middle 40's F (+4 to +8 C) dry the plant out. If it is a mature plant it can handle a total drought for 4 or more months. Whenever it is cool, below 50 F (+8 C) keep it dry. Bring inside or into protection before danger of frost. Keep dry and sunny. Sometime after the first of the new year you will see new growth emerge from the base of the plant, let it get above the mix, maybe half an inch (1.0+ cm) and then resume watering and fertilizer. New growth is a sign that it is time to grow, and water will be needed. Normally I try to keep the dry spell from November 15 to February 15, though the dry spell should not end until you see new vegetative growth start. I have had some stay dormant from November to May before they wake up. Some don't seem to take a rest at all. Individual results will vary even within the species. Forcing a minimum of 2 months of drought seems to keep them blooming on schedule.

It is supposed to be a spring bloomer. though sometimes plants don't read the books, so they do what they want. Do try to observe the maturity of the current year's new pseudobulbs and use that to decide if it is time to be dry or time to be wet. Where it comes from, the dry season will be 3 to 4 months, but fog and dew at night can often provide moisture, so if you see pseudobulbs getting real wrinkly, give them a light misting or let them catch some rain. Young and small plants will need water during the dry season. If it is less than 5 pseudobulbs consider it a young plant. Cold alone can set flower buds, but do not frost this plant. If you don't get cold, the dry spell can set the flower buds, so if you don't drop below 60 F. at night the dry spell can set the flower buds. If you see flower buds form during the dry spell, ignore them, don't start watering. The plant likes to flower before the rains come, reason, the insect pollinators can't fly well in the heavy rain. So don't start watering until the flower buds are fully developed and just about to open, then give it a good soak, keep dry after that soak until new growth appears at the base of the plant.

Whew, a lot to read. Looks complicated. Most of this can be solved by where you hang your basket of Dendrobium. I move mine twice a year. Out in spring, back in late October. It isn't difficult once you get the pattern down. Good luck, and may you get the thousands of flowers a specimen thyrsiflorum can give you.
Awesome info. I think i have been keeping it far too dry. It is in a hangong basket in coconut chips. Only been watering it every 5-7 days if it hasnt rained. Outdoors under a live oak. It could get more light but i dont have a spot yet. Stay tuned i am going to be building a greenhouse for them and my few tropicals soon. The power, water, and slab are already there. Just need to change the tin roof to clear panels and install clear panels on the exterior. Pretty excited to get it going before winter!
 

LanceMac10

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Brother Johnny's wife wanted something with pretty flowers.....

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Tropical species so I'll let you know how things pan out. Looks like a bug magnet, so I'm glad it ain't mine!! But check out the flowers....

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just.wing.it

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Leo in N E Illinois

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Witch hazel, Hamamelis virginiana, doing it's normal Michigan bloom time, middle of Autumn. We've had a serious 7 week drought, finally got rain the last 2 days. Foliage is beat up, but it's blooming. Will probably have occasional flushes of flowers on warm days through the autumn and into winter. I've read they have been used for bonsai, but leaves don't reduce well. I have not tried.

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