Fertilizer for jbp and junipers

Beto,

what you are trying ----not to do ------ is get shoots growing fast and soft.
Very tasty for bugs.
If you see bugs, you know you are using too much.

You also don't want to damage the roots----- I believe Michael covered that.

You can also overdo and make your heartwood weak.

So just find out about a weak solution, generally one sees 10 to 12 N and the K is supposed
to react with organic material and can build up. I believe the P remains water soluble
and washes out. Micro nutrients hmm ............ and you should really talk to Paul or
Michael [ both from Australia ]

We make our compost with weeds as well, supposed to hold micro nutrients naturally.
And we don't have to think about it.

You may have to read a bit. Ask for a simple book.
Good Day
Anthony

Anthony said:

Beto,

what you are trying ----not to do ------ is get shoots growing fast and soft.
Very tasty for bugs.
If you see bugs, you know you are using too much.

You also don't want to damage the roots----- I believe Michael covered that.

You can also overdo and make your heartwood weak.

So just find out about a weak solution, generally one sees 10 to 12 N and the K is supposed
to react with organic material and can build up. I believe the P remains water soluble
and washes out. Micro nutrients hmm ............ and you should really talk to Paul or
Michael [ both from Australia ]

We make our compost with weeds as well, supposed to hold micro nutrients naturally.
And we don't have to think about it.

You may have to read a bit. Ask for a simple book.
Good Day
Anthony

Click to expand...

What it happens, I hear many things about fertilizing. Feeding heavy, this and that. All I want is to improve my trees health and growth as I stated before. What to do and what to avoid. And yes, I've been reading a lot about ferts, that's why I'm confused if you have to use certain ferts for evergreens, and not use ferts designed for flowers or vegetables. Definitely, lots to learn.

Anthony said:

Michael,

we are using Miracle Gro Lawn Fertiliser at 1/3 strength into moist soil, once a week. Something like 12 N and very low on P and K
and anything else.
It keeps the leaves deep green in full sun, and growth / extensions are slow.
We have had no aphids etc, and the plants don't touch each other, with good breeze.

Is there anything else we should do ?

The organic varies from as little as 1 to 9 , 1 organic to 9 inorganic [ holds no moisture ] by volume to 3 organic to 7 inorganic [ can have
an inorganic that holds moisture ] by volume.

Always looking to improve, if possible.
Thanks in Advance.
Good Day'
Anthony

Click to expand...

Anthony, if you are growing stock in plastic pots, I think it's easiest if you use 9 month nutricote (or osmocote) at say 3 gms per litre of mix. (you will need to adjust the amount according to your particular situation). I apply it as a top dressing just before filling the final 50mm of mix when potting up. That's it and that's all. After that all you need to do is water. If I think they could use an N boost, I will top dress with one handful of pelleted chicken manure per 10 inch pot twice a year. You can use any good solid organic feed but again, adjust according to it's release etc.
The bonsai get cakes and the occasional liquid feed of any high N fert. I also use seaweed solution once per month. In other words, less N than the stock which you want to put 6 feet of growth on in one season (if unpruned).
For every 1 bonsai, I may have 100 stock plants so controlled release prills is the easiest way to manage without too much work.
Oh, and I also use dolomite top dressed twice per year especialyl with the osmocote.

MrBeto said:

What it happens, I hear many things about fertilizing. Feeding heavy, this and that. All I want is to improve my trees health and growth as I stated before. What to do and what to avoid. And yes, I've been reading a lot about ferts, that's why I'm confused if you have to use certain ferts for evergreens, and not use ferts designed for flowers or vegetables. Definitely, lots to learn.

Click to expand...

Forget everything for now. Use your favourite fertilizer and follow the instructions for indoor plants. You won't go wrong if you do that. In the mean time, you can study the subject and experiment with other things as you go. If you can keep your plants alive and reasonably green, you are basically doing the right thing. Fine tuning adjustments come with time. Practice on expendables.

Mike,

truly ingenious, a modern day variation on oil seed meal cakes. We use I believe Multicote [ Israel ]
designed for 30 deg.C temperatures.

We used to do what you have advised for the rainy season ---- June to say November.
Also had access to the 9 month type.
However at first, we left it on the surface and then later began to put it under on the sides of the pot.

Then the rain energized the plants so much we got growth when we didn't want it.

How foolishly simple ------- boinggggg

Will restart with test Tamarinds and so on.
Gratefully,
Anthony

Anthony said:

Mike,

truly ingenious, a modern day variation on oil seed meal cakes. We use I believe Multicote [ Israel ]
designed for 30 deg.C temperatures.

We used to do what you have advised for the rainy season ---- June to say November.
Also had access to the 9 month type.
However at first, we left it on the surface and then later began to put it under on the sides of the pot.

Then the rain energized the plants so much we got growth when we didn't want it.

How foolishly simple ------- boinggggg

Will restart with test Tamarinds and so on.
Gratefully,
Anthony

Click to expand...

Ha! Yes well the tropics is a different kettle of fish to what I know. Maybe with the extra heat you need to reduce the rate?? If your nights are in the twenties (C) or more, release rates will be huge!

Mike,

Trinidad is an odd ball island, we are presently going through our heat wave - 34 deg.C for about a half an hour a day.
Cloudy or Sahara dust or both.

Mind you this is a weather report coming from the airport, say 9 m above sea level and a ton of asphalt.
San Fernando ranges between 60 m and almost peaking at 200 m above sea level and a fairly constant breeze.

So for example I was in the capital Port of Spain, yesterday and dying of heat and a higher humidity, than we have in South.

When the rains fall our highs drop to 30 deg.C and lower. Night flat lines around 22 deg.C with a breeze/

2 weeks in August or early September is usually our high humid period and no breeze.

Noted on rates and will experiment to match.
Thanks again.
Good Day
Anthony