I've posted these pictures on a couple other threads, but they will eventually get buried... So I thought I'd make this one to document how to do "detail" wiring. These are the smaller wires that control the last couple of inches of branch, and set the tip ends to make pads.
Usually most wiring discussions focus on bending heavy branches in curves, or bring branches "down". This one is different. It's about wiring needles!
Let's get started...
The tree: a Formal Upright Japanese Black Pine. It's just been decandled, and some needles pulled. Old wire has been removed. It was last wired about 5 years ago, and the new growth was going straight up. So, it's time to begin wiring:
For this discussion, we will be using the bottom left branch. See how the branch comes off the trunk at a slightly downward angle? Then about 2 inches from the end, it turns up? That's where the old wire ended. That's what this thread will bid about, how to wire that last little bit.
No need to apply heavy wire to move the branch, it's set at a good angle. The secondary branches need wire to provide good anchors for the detail wires. All the small branches on this tree are soft and supple. A benefit of using organic fertilizer.
The tree after the two bottom branches are wired:
Eventually, the entire tree will get this treatment.
Oh... This work was done right after decandling. That's a good time to wire. It looks kind of sparce because the needles on it are one year old, and are getting kinda tired. They'll be pulled in November.
Lets take a closer look at the left branch from above:
Focus in to the ends of the branches. They're wired with copper, mostly 16 gauge. That's usually the smallest I ever use on JBP. this tree is pretty refined, so there are some smaller, finer branches, and for those I use 18. (For White pine, generally the smallest is 18, and occasionally I'll use 20.)
See how the ends of the wires curl under the bases of the needles? That's the "fishhook".
Many people, when they get to the end of the branch, spiral it out, then cut the wire off flush to the twig. Or, they leave a long section of wire sticking out into space. Don't do either of those. Take the time to form the little loop that goes under the base of the needles, and cradles them. Finish by turning the hook up and back. Then cutting the excess off.
Turning the hook up and back supports the needles on the bottom, preventing them from pointing down when the twig is bent into a horizontal position.
Look at the branch from the side:
You really don't see them! Curling the ends of the hook back, the cut ends are pointed back at the trunk. The cut ends are shiny and reflective. And will catch your eye. Curling them back prevents your eye from noticing them.
So... The fishhook goes under the needles, then curled around supporting them, then turns back towards the trunk, and sweeps up a bit. It actually extends out farther than the woody part of the branch, then curls back.
One last benefit of the fishhook... When it's time to remove the wire, the end of the wire is easy to grab with the pliers and unspin it. Yes, I do unspin the wire. I don't cut it in little chunks. We can discuss that in another thread. Let's keep this one on the little hooks.
You do the same thing with all species you wire, not just pines.
Usually most wiring discussions focus on bending heavy branches in curves, or bring branches "down". This one is different. It's about wiring needles!
Let's get started...
The tree: a Formal Upright Japanese Black Pine. It's just been decandled, and some needles pulled. Old wire has been removed. It was last wired about 5 years ago, and the new growth was going straight up. So, it's time to begin wiring:
For this discussion, we will be using the bottom left branch. See how the branch comes off the trunk at a slightly downward angle? Then about 2 inches from the end, it turns up? That's where the old wire ended. That's what this thread will bid about, how to wire that last little bit.
No need to apply heavy wire to move the branch, it's set at a good angle. The secondary branches need wire to provide good anchors for the detail wires. All the small branches on this tree are soft and supple. A benefit of using organic fertilizer.
The tree after the two bottom branches are wired:
Eventually, the entire tree will get this treatment.
Oh... This work was done right after decandling. That's a good time to wire. It looks kind of sparce because the needles on it are one year old, and are getting kinda tired. They'll be pulled in November.
Lets take a closer look at the left branch from above:
Focus in to the ends of the branches. They're wired with copper, mostly 16 gauge. That's usually the smallest I ever use on JBP. this tree is pretty refined, so there are some smaller, finer branches, and for those I use 18. (For White pine, generally the smallest is 18, and occasionally I'll use 20.)
See how the ends of the wires curl under the bases of the needles? That's the "fishhook".
Many people, when they get to the end of the branch, spiral it out, then cut the wire off flush to the twig. Or, they leave a long section of wire sticking out into space. Don't do either of those. Take the time to form the little loop that goes under the base of the needles, and cradles them. Finish by turning the hook up and back. Then cutting the excess off.
Turning the hook up and back supports the needles on the bottom, preventing them from pointing down when the twig is bent into a horizontal position.
Look at the branch from the side:
You really don't see them! Curling the ends of the hook back, the cut ends are pointed back at the trunk. The cut ends are shiny and reflective. And will catch your eye. Curling them back prevents your eye from noticing them.
So... The fishhook goes under the needles, then curled around supporting them, then turns back towards the trunk, and sweeps up a bit. It actually extends out farther than the woody part of the branch, then curls back.
One last benefit of the fishhook... When it's time to remove the wire, the end of the wire is easy to grab with the pliers and unspin it. Yes, I do unspin the wire. I don't cut it in little chunks. We can discuss that in another thread. Let's keep this one on the little hooks.
You do the same thing with all species you wire, not just pines.