Boxwood - Where to from here

coh

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Boxwood is one of the species that Jack Wikle talks about as doing well indoors year round.
 

fredman

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Man this thread helped me make up my mind about Boxwoods. I have a 15yr old hedge of them that I need to remove, but was in two minds what to do with it. There's about 60 trees in that hedge. I'll bonsai the lot.. keep the best and sell the rest. If they layer well, I suppose they should survive a dig well to....?
 
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@hometeamrocker Did you mean equal root pruning or....? And please,in your opinion(and I know that many species are tropical)can some of them get away without a proper dormancy Apparently the King can,but I don't have a King.Mine looks like a regular European type.But I bought it at a nursery here and I am suspicious.Buy a dozen,put in a nice parterre or something.Watch them decline and then go back to the nursery for more.Anyway,an odd problem,I know but any insight would be appreciated.

I do this work on years that I'm not repotting, so not necessarily top and bottom pruning. I just don't leave one out of a pair of equal leaves. In my experience, they can stand aggressive root pruning. I'm not sure about dormancy, so I'll leave that one alone. Though my picture is pretty bad, here is a branch area I just worked. You can see some places where I took leaves out near the base of their shoot leaving buds, what I left and where I cut back to. Hope this helps.
 

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Dorian Fourie

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Hi, I rarely reply with "instruction", but I love boxwoods and have recently worked all of mine and love the results. I agree with most, if not all of what has been posted thus far. If this were my tree, I would start by cleaning it up. There are a lot of long whips (branches) that could be taken back to begin reasonable branching. If you understand the concept of taper (assuming), take the branches back to begin good tapering. Any place where the branch splits into a trident, take one away. When I started with boxwoods the center one seemed the obvious choice. But, I didn't always like the hard angle it left of the 2 remaining branches. So, take away one of the side branches that's going in the direction less appealing. Another clean up is taking out old leaves. Any place the branch has split into 2-3, and there are leaves at the base of the split, I call them Mickey Mouse ears, I take them out by pulling towards me. These leaves have done their job and often grow larger than others. This will clean up the split and expose branch structure and interesting angles. Also, I take out sets of leaves near the trunk or main branches. I pull them in pairs towards me, leaving dormant bud intact. Removing leaves in these ways will give you a much cleaner image while allowing air and light to the interior of the plant, and again showing angles and branch structure. To me, boxwoods look best with leaves mostly at the tips of the branches, thought they want to set leaves way down at the base and crotches of splits. Finally, any pruning means equal pruning, essential in boxwoods. If the tree were mine, I would go through this clean up process to expose what is really there and make further decisions from there. Just taking out the Mickey Mouse ears and lowest leaves on the branches will make a big difference. Keep us posted.
With this detailed instruction you should be giving loads more instructions. This is brilliant. Thanks so much. I will definitely do this as soon as I get a gap.

We are heading into Autumn now. Should I hold off until Spring?
 
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M. Frary

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View attachment 96818
Thank you very much for response. So you're the first who's confirmed me this. Giving it a try to push the size of two of my boxwoods.
This illustraton is for leaf reduction and ramification. It won't help to make boxwoods bigger. It will actually slow trunk growth if that's what you are trying to do.
 

petegreg

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This illustraton is for leaf reduction and ramification. It won't help to make boxwoods bigger. It will actually slow trunk growth if that's what you are trying to do.
I need to reduce the size of entire tree by few inches...and don't want to risk chopping it down with no leaves left. If I get the first (lowest) branches sprouted from back buds I will cut the rest of branches above. This is my intention.
Screenshot_2016-03-06-14-51-49_20160306151607725.jpg
 
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I need to reduce the size of entire tree by few inches...and don't want to risk chopping it down with no leaves left. If I get the first (lowest) branches sprouted from back buds I will cut the rest of branches above. This is my intention.
View attachment 96823

With this plan, if you see buds at the bases of the leaves, you will get 2 new leaves/branches from the pairs you cut back to. Let them run and repeat next time, removing the lowest sets you originally cut back to, creating branch structure with angles. If you need the branches to thicken, leave them alone. All this said, look at the angles left after cutting the center out, it's pretty rigid. Looking at the top of the illustration, the 3 branches, if you remove the left or right branch, the angle left has more grace with the softer angle. Something to consider after original cutbacks and with future growth/trimming patterns. I think I would wait until spring to do the trimming if you're heading into autumn.
 
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Hi guys, I'm not trying to thread jack here but thought I'd share pics to back up what I posted. It's been just over a month since I posted and did the work on my boxwoods, and here is the results. You can see where I removed the lower leaves and the Mickey Mouse ears and the bacdkbudding that comes along with doing so, leaving many options for further development. I hope this helps!
 

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sorce

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Mickey Mouse

Nice HTR.

Just an observation.

In the Harry Drawing....he keeps the apical bud intact, they are cut in your pictures.....have you any that were not cut?

It is interesting to note.....that where a leaf was pulled, the branch is stronger, almost like you can reliably control them somewhat by leaving or removing leaves.

This could be very useful where you need stronger branches (remove leaf), or finer branches(leave leaf).

I think attention to these small details is important, especially for small trees.

Thanks for sharing!

Any other pics would be great too!

Sorce
 
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Nice HTR.

Just an observation.

In the Harry Drawing....he keeps the apical bud intact, they are cut in your pictures.....have you any that were not cut?

It is interesting to note.....that where a leaf was pulled, the branch is stronger, almost like you can reliably control them somewhat by leaving or removing leaves.

This could be very useful where you need stronger branches (remove leaf), or finer branches(leave leaf).

I think attention to these small details is important, especially for small trees.

Thanks for sharing!

Any other pics would be great too!

Sorce

What you see in my pics is where I cut back to, at the same time as removing lower leaves, choosing which 2 would be the apical leaves. These will become the Mickey Mouse ears after the new buds pop at their base and will be removed on the next go-round. And, I agree, the branches do seem to lignify and harden when removing lower leaves.
 

fh05

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How hard can the roots be pruned and what is the best/acceptable time to work on roots? Thanks
 
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How hard can the roots be pruned and what is the best/acceptable time to work on roots? Thanks

Spring is the best time, and with a healthy tree you should have lots of roots. IMO, you can be pretty brutal. Also, a boxwood will throw roots all up the trunk, as high as the soil. I've had to work roots down the trunk to expose better nebari, as well as working them from the bottom up to the bottom of the trunk...
 
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