Smoke
Ignore-Amus
The soil debate rages on.
In bonsai, much like most everything else man plays with, there will be professionals and those that dabble around the edges. Those that nibble at the edges have just as much to contribute as those that call themselves professionals. At one time even the professionals dabbled at the edge. When debating soil, sometimes the professionals make statements about things from a purely personal point of view, but because of their standing in the community are viewed as the final word. Those maybe not so well versed in soil mechanics consider that word as gospel and then never question whether or not those words stand up or not.
Is soil required for plant growth?
The answer is no. Soil is there to provide the plant two things, A place for nutrient exchange and a medium to provide anchorage. If both of those requirements are met, the plant can grow without soil. Soil provides absolutely nothing to the plants ability to grow and thrive. Those requirements are met by water, nutrients, and air.
Just like us and other living creatures on the earth, plants also need air to survive. While we, the human beings, need air only to breathe in, the plants need it for making their food as well. During the day and night time, plants inhale oxygen for survival. They absorb oxygen through pores found on undersides of the leaves. The oxygen spreads into the live cells of plants and makes them breathe. Carbon dioxide also seeps out through these pores.
Along with 24/7 requirement of oxygen, plants also need carbon dioxide during the day for making their food. In the presence of sunlight, the chlorophyll in leaves makes food with the help of water in the soil and carbon dioxide in the air. This process is known as photosynthesis. For photosynthesis, plants also inhale carbon dioxide through the same pores. So, plants need air for two reasons – respiration and photosynthesis.
Soil has a bearing on the requirements of air. Particle size is important for the free exchange of air. A lack of air will cause the plant to actually suffocate and become weak. Particle sizes that are too small can compact and impede air flow.
In the case of bonsai, nutrients are required as part of the health of the potted tree. There are two kinds of growing environments. A closed system and an open system. Am example of a closed system would be total hydroponic farming, where the water, air and nutrients are carefully controlled in a green house or marijuana basement. An open system is much like the Earth and all of its plant inhabitants. They receive water by natural rain, nutrients by the breakdown of organic matter, and air which surrounds them all the time.
In bonsai, we balance what we do on the razors edge of an open system and a closed system. While we control all the water and nutrients, the open pot is open to the air and natural breakdowns of organics and insects. We change the soil, we remove heavy rootage as it grows, thus allowing us to keep the plant indefinitely in a smaller container.
Bonsai culture is not that far removed from hydroponics culture. We use a free flowing substrate which allows water to flow thru thus pulling in fresh air to the substrate while expelling the old stale air. While even sand will allow for the fast flow of water thru it, its rather small size does not allow for free air exchange.
Nutrients
Nutrients have a positive ionic charge. Clay and humus have a negative charge. Clay and organic matter attract nutrient ions. This union is called a static charge. This bond is what keeps the fertilizer affixed to the clay or humus, much like a balloon rubbed on a girls sweater. If your soil does not contain clay or organic matter, there is nothing in the pot for the fertilizer ions to bond with. The fertilizer just washes thru the pot upon watering. The introduction of organic compounds to the mix will suffice in helping make that bond. These might be in the form of rough peat ( like Walter Pall uses) or fir bark, or composted sawdust (planting mix).
The application of Humic acid to a watering regimen insures that this CEC union is kept. Humic acid insures that our mix will continue to stay negatively charged and attract and HOLD the fertilizer ions. In most cases and thru scientific study in the San Joaquin valley farmers, it has been seen that additions of Humic acid can elevate a clay soil to twice its CEC.
Recently on the forum I have read about usuing the most popular soil component simply because of its ease of purchase, Turface.
This is what one person wrote:
"This is pretty much how I look at it. I read (and participate in) these threads to get new ideas. Our climate is very different from Florida, Texas, California, Germany, so I'll take ideas from people in those areas and test them. But until I convince myself that those approaches work for me, I defer to what successful people are using in my area. I think that's the most sensible approach."
This is a misguided notion since soil is a inanimate object and cannot behave any differently Texas , as it does in California, North Carolina or Japan. There is only one varible with turface. What it is mixed with, and how it is watered. Any other idea is not true.
Another misguided notion,
"Popcorn Thread" It is entertaining and somewhere along the line I must mention that basic types of "mixes" work differently in different conditions. Also having been able to auto mist and water a lot as well as fertilize a lot my routine and substrate is based on Walter Pall and his methods. It is not EXACT as he does but the principle and logic is and slightly modified for my part of the world. What WORKS FOR YOU is what works and you can easily develop a well rounded solution for all of the above to suit your personal needs and that of your specimens. My Wife has been doing this far longer then me and deals solely with tropicals here in the North East. I deal with everything but Tropicals except when I help her with her specimens. We live in the same house and enjoy Bonsai although she does what she does for her reasons and I do what I do for my reasons and all works out ok..."
There is some sort of misunderstanding when it comes to soil chemistry, and that is that people thing one has to modify the soil compnents to the need of the plant to satisfy some personel belief. This is just not true. One can plant in pure sand and get a plant to grow as long as one waters and fertilizes properly. The soil is not the be all end all of the equation. What is important is that the soil substrate can meet or exceede the properties that the plant needs to thrive, water, air and nutrients. What you pour them thru is immaterial.
One guy said this about what his perfect soil recipie would be:
"Im going to have to defend Darthfunkel here and say if there had to be one soil and one soil only. Granted it will work better for some than others. It would probably have to be mix of akadama, pumice, and lava(i hesitate on this one because of what i stated earlier.) The ratios are up to you based on your needs. Drainage layers and top dressings are welcome. Fertilizing will obviously be necessary"
This would be a no brainer except for one thing. What is the size of the particle? Is it large enough to provide that lare free exchange of air?
This guy replied:
"Then that is NOT one superior mix for all climates"
Of course it is. Potting substrate follows some physics. It will be exactly the same substrate everywhere. The only thing that will have to be modified is to water to keep the hydration in Oregon the same as Texas. That has nothing to do with the substrate and everything to do with good horticultural husbandry.
I added this quote becasue of the last line:
"If" I ever bothered to try an all around mix for all climates I am pretty certain it would contain Turkey Grit, Pumice and Pine horse bedding, maybe crushed Lava for color... We don't need no stinking dirt".
I have no idea what pine horse bedding is, but I can assure you I ain't putting it in my soil for my trees. In this case we have to conclude that the pine horse beddiong is some sort of organic compound. In that case, then there would be no need for the addition of dirt or clay.
This quote is really getting to the crux of the matter, they just don't know why it works. Akadama is not magical as some smart asses have made it out to be.
"This is exactly what I would do if akadama were to become unavailable - find a way to obtain it here. It is not magical because it comes from Japan - they just discovered this kind of soil works well for bonsai."
It is magical because it is a natural clay component made up mostly of inorganic clay particles with residual amounts of humic acid in it due to eons of decomposition of organic compounds contained in the overburdon.
I find it odd that most of the people that use akadama in their soil also use some sort of organic fertilizer, either home made cakes or rapeseed cakes. They tout the benifits of a totally inorganic mix then heap on huge amounts of soil clogging organic fertilizers.
Lately I have seen a common thread in most all the soils I read about. Everyone is using some sort of organic component in their soil mix. If you do not use akadama because it is not readily available or too expensive, then wood bark or soil conditioner or compost seems the obvious choice worldwide.
Since I found out about humic acid via the marijuana business in a house that burnt that I rebuilt, I have used a totally inorganic soil mix. I use inorganic components of akadama, lava and pumice. The akadama is clay and does contain organics as well as the ability to increase its CEC with additional humic acid.
I consider akadama to be a organic component even though its really not. I consider this because to take the akadama out of the mix would require me to put an organic component into the mix to retain fertilizer and moisture. I do not wish to do this and so akadama is superior in that regard. A soil mix of lava and pumice would not be very good on its own since it would have no CEC and the fertilzer would wash thru with every watering. I am doing experiments in total pumice soil and the liberal addition of humates to see what effects the humates have on inorganic pumice.
In conclusion,
A superior soil mix will contain an organic component
will contain a particle size large enough for air exchange.
Turface has a rather high CEC, but the particle size is so small that the free exchange of air is hindered. If it came in a larger size and was cheaper than akadama I would use it in a heartbeat.
At the present time,
I do not wish to put wood bark in my soil mix
I want my particles all the same size for free water flow
I want a particle with a high CEC
Akadama, lava and pumice meet and exceed all those pre-requisites for me. I am not trying to convince anyone that my soil is better than what you use. I am just trying to get some facts out there. Dispute them if you wish there is substantial information on the net about organics and humic acid. Just know that if you want the best soil possible without adding organic matter to your mix, then akadama, lava, and pumice is superior.
In bonsai, much like most everything else man plays with, there will be professionals and those that dabble around the edges. Those that nibble at the edges have just as much to contribute as those that call themselves professionals. At one time even the professionals dabbled at the edge. When debating soil, sometimes the professionals make statements about things from a purely personal point of view, but because of their standing in the community are viewed as the final word. Those maybe not so well versed in soil mechanics consider that word as gospel and then never question whether or not those words stand up or not.
Is soil required for plant growth?
The answer is no. Soil is there to provide the plant two things, A place for nutrient exchange and a medium to provide anchorage. If both of those requirements are met, the plant can grow without soil. Soil provides absolutely nothing to the plants ability to grow and thrive. Those requirements are met by water, nutrients, and air.
Just like us and other living creatures on the earth, plants also need air to survive. While we, the human beings, need air only to breathe in, the plants need it for making their food as well. During the day and night time, plants inhale oxygen for survival. They absorb oxygen through pores found on undersides of the leaves. The oxygen spreads into the live cells of plants and makes them breathe. Carbon dioxide also seeps out through these pores.
Along with 24/7 requirement of oxygen, plants also need carbon dioxide during the day for making their food. In the presence of sunlight, the chlorophyll in leaves makes food with the help of water in the soil and carbon dioxide in the air. This process is known as photosynthesis. For photosynthesis, plants also inhale carbon dioxide through the same pores. So, plants need air for two reasons – respiration and photosynthesis.
Soil has a bearing on the requirements of air. Particle size is important for the free exchange of air. A lack of air will cause the plant to actually suffocate and become weak. Particle sizes that are too small can compact and impede air flow.
In the case of bonsai, nutrients are required as part of the health of the potted tree. There are two kinds of growing environments. A closed system and an open system. Am example of a closed system would be total hydroponic farming, where the water, air and nutrients are carefully controlled in a green house or marijuana basement. An open system is much like the Earth and all of its plant inhabitants. They receive water by natural rain, nutrients by the breakdown of organic matter, and air which surrounds them all the time.
In bonsai, we balance what we do on the razors edge of an open system and a closed system. While we control all the water and nutrients, the open pot is open to the air and natural breakdowns of organics and insects. We change the soil, we remove heavy rootage as it grows, thus allowing us to keep the plant indefinitely in a smaller container.
Bonsai culture is not that far removed from hydroponics culture. We use a free flowing substrate which allows water to flow thru thus pulling in fresh air to the substrate while expelling the old stale air. While even sand will allow for the fast flow of water thru it, its rather small size does not allow for free air exchange.
Nutrients
Nutrients have a positive ionic charge. Clay and humus have a negative charge. Clay and organic matter attract nutrient ions. This union is called a static charge. This bond is what keeps the fertilizer affixed to the clay or humus, much like a balloon rubbed on a girls sweater. If your soil does not contain clay or organic matter, there is nothing in the pot for the fertilizer ions to bond with. The fertilizer just washes thru the pot upon watering. The introduction of organic compounds to the mix will suffice in helping make that bond. These might be in the form of rough peat ( like Walter Pall uses) or fir bark, or composted sawdust (planting mix).
The application of Humic acid to a watering regimen insures that this CEC union is kept. Humic acid insures that our mix will continue to stay negatively charged and attract and HOLD the fertilizer ions. In most cases and thru scientific study in the San Joaquin valley farmers, it has been seen that additions of Humic acid can elevate a clay soil to twice its CEC.
Recently on the forum I have read about usuing the most popular soil component simply because of its ease of purchase, Turface.
This is what one person wrote:
"This is pretty much how I look at it. I read (and participate in) these threads to get new ideas. Our climate is very different from Florida, Texas, California, Germany, so I'll take ideas from people in those areas and test them. But until I convince myself that those approaches work for me, I defer to what successful people are using in my area. I think that's the most sensible approach."
This is a misguided notion since soil is a inanimate object and cannot behave any differently Texas , as it does in California, North Carolina or Japan. There is only one varible with turface. What it is mixed with, and how it is watered. Any other idea is not true.
Another misguided notion,
"Popcorn Thread" It is entertaining and somewhere along the line I must mention that basic types of "mixes" work differently in different conditions. Also having been able to auto mist and water a lot as well as fertilize a lot my routine and substrate is based on Walter Pall and his methods. It is not EXACT as he does but the principle and logic is and slightly modified for my part of the world. What WORKS FOR YOU is what works and you can easily develop a well rounded solution for all of the above to suit your personal needs and that of your specimens. My Wife has been doing this far longer then me and deals solely with tropicals here in the North East. I deal with everything but Tropicals except when I help her with her specimens. We live in the same house and enjoy Bonsai although she does what she does for her reasons and I do what I do for my reasons and all works out ok..."
There is some sort of misunderstanding when it comes to soil chemistry, and that is that people thing one has to modify the soil compnents to the need of the plant to satisfy some personel belief. This is just not true. One can plant in pure sand and get a plant to grow as long as one waters and fertilizes properly. The soil is not the be all end all of the equation. What is important is that the soil substrate can meet or exceede the properties that the plant needs to thrive, water, air and nutrients. What you pour them thru is immaterial.
One guy said this about what his perfect soil recipie would be:
"Im going to have to defend Darthfunkel here and say if there had to be one soil and one soil only. Granted it will work better for some than others. It would probably have to be mix of akadama, pumice, and lava(i hesitate on this one because of what i stated earlier.) The ratios are up to you based on your needs. Drainage layers and top dressings are welcome. Fertilizing will obviously be necessary"
This would be a no brainer except for one thing. What is the size of the particle? Is it large enough to provide that lare free exchange of air?
This guy replied:
"Then that is NOT one superior mix for all climates"
Of course it is. Potting substrate follows some physics. It will be exactly the same substrate everywhere. The only thing that will have to be modified is to water to keep the hydration in Oregon the same as Texas. That has nothing to do with the substrate and everything to do with good horticultural husbandry.
I added this quote becasue of the last line:
"If" I ever bothered to try an all around mix for all climates I am pretty certain it would contain Turkey Grit, Pumice and Pine horse bedding, maybe crushed Lava for color... We don't need no stinking dirt".
I have no idea what pine horse bedding is, but I can assure you I ain't putting it in my soil for my trees. In this case we have to conclude that the pine horse beddiong is some sort of organic compound. In that case, then there would be no need for the addition of dirt or clay.
This quote is really getting to the crux of the matter, they just don't know why it works. Akadama is not magical as some smart asses have made it out to be.
"This is exactly what I would do if akadama were to become unavailable - find a way to obtain it here. It is not magical because it comes from Japan - they just discovered this kind of soil works well for bonsai."
It is magical because it is a natural clay component made up mostly of inorganic clay particles with residual amounts of humic acid in it due to eons of decomposition of organic compounds contained in the overburdon.
I find it odd that most of the people that use akadama in their soil also use some sort of organic fertilizer, either home made cakes or rapeseed cakes. They tout the benifits of a totally inorganic mix then heap on huge amounts of soil clogging organic fertilizers.
Lately I have seen a common thread in most all the soils I read about. Everyone is using some sort of organic component in their soil mix. If you do not use akadama because it is not readily available or too expensive, then wood bark or soil conditioner or compost seems the obvious choice worldwide.
Since I found out about humic acid via the marijuana business in a house that burnt that I rebuilt, I have used a totally inorganic soil mix. I use inorganic components of akadama, lava and pumice. The akadama is clay and does contain organics as well as the ability to increase its CEC with additional humic acid.
I consider akadama to be a organic component even though its really not. I consider this because to take the akadama out of the mix would require me to put an organic component into the mix to retain fertilizer and moisture. I do not wish to do this and so akadama is superior in that regard. A soil mix of lava and pumice would not be very good on its own since it would have no CEC and the fertilzer would wash thru with every watering. I am doing experiments in total pumice soil and the liberal addition of humates to see what effects the humates have on inorganic pumice.
In conclusion,
A superior soil mix will contain an organic component
will contain a particle size large enough for air exchange.
Turface has a rather high CEC, but the particle size is so small that the free exchange of air is hindered. If it came in a larger size and was cheaper than akadama I would use it in a heartbeat.
At the present time,
I do not wish to put wood bark in my soil mix
I want my particles all the same size for free water flow
I want a particle with a high CEC
Akadama, lava and pumice meet and exceed all those pre-requisites for me. I am not trying to convince anyone that my soil is better than what you use. I am just trying to get some facts out there. Dispute them if you wish there is substantial information on the net about organics and humic acid. Just know that if you want the best soil possible without adding organic matter to your mix, then akadama, lava, and pumice is superior.
