Need help removing large JBP roots

[Ming dynasty]

I have a large field grown JBP with some large roots in the center of root mass. I’ve tried removing it with my root cutter but it’s not doing much to it. Actually caused a small burr line on the inside of one blade. Any idea on what else I can try? I don’t want to further damage root cutter and or the pine. Thank you in advance

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

I can't see the roots you're talking about, but I've successfully girdled some pine roots in the past. It essentially ground layers the fat root by cutting off supplies, and it takes about 3 years. No cuts need to be made until there are new roots forming above the girdle. And eventually you can saw the fat roots off.
Take a fat ziptie, and by fat I mean a wide one. And just zip it around the roots that you want to cut off. Then put the plant back into the pot and make sure that from the ziptie to the top of the soil, there's at least half an inch of soil left. An inch is better.
Then just treat it as a normal tree and let nature do the work.

Copper is out of the question because in soil it'll dissolve over time and release a whole bunch of copper. So that's why I prefer plastic. You pick the widest because you don't want it to grow over your girdle.

 

[Ming dynasty]

I can't see the roots you're talking about, but I've successfully girdled some pine roots in the past. It essentially ground layers the fat root by cutting off supplies, and it takes about 3 years. No cuts need to be made until there are new roots forming above the girdle. And eventually you can saw the fat roots off.
Take a fat ziptie, and by fat I mean a wide one. And just zip it around the roots that you want to cut off. Then put the plant back into the pot and make sure that from the ziptie to the top of the soil, there's at least half an inch of soil left. An inch is better.
Then just treat it as a normal tree and let nature do the work.

Copper is out of the question because in soil it'll dissolve over time and release a whole bunch of copper. So that's why I prefer plastic. You pick the widest because you don't want it to grow over your girdle.

My bad, the repot was done few months back. I didn’t take pictures, should have. I’m researching ways so that next repot I can deal with it. The root I’m referring to look like it’s part of the trunk. There are other roots growing around this. I assume I’ll have to separate it before girdling that “trunk root”? I was thinking using some sort of grinder or chisel to shave it down.

 

[Shibui]

I usually use a saw to cut thick roots. I have an older one because no matter how much I clean the roots there always seems to be some grit that quickly takes the edge of the saw. Only good where you can work between other roots to get at the thick one that has to be cut.
Long handle bypass tree loppers are also good for roots up to around 1.5" but may also be difficult to get into confined spaces.

Just make sure you actually have good roots growing from above the cut line before chopping large roots.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

My bad, the repot was done few months back. I didn’t take pictures, should have. I’m researching ways so that next repot I can deal with it. The root I’m referring to look like it’s part of the trunk. There are other roots growing around this. I assume I’ll have to separate it before girdling that “trunk root”? I was thinking using some sort of grinder or chisel to shave it down.

What I've done is just getting the soil out of there and pushing good roots to the side, girdle it, and push the good roots back and leave it be.
I can show some results of my latest one next spring.
Eventually the trunk root dies off, but in the mean time the girdle causes it to produce feeder roots above the girdle. That way there's minimal damage and instant restoration.
In one particular case, that tap root rotted away already and I could break it off with my fingers.

 

[Ming dynasty]

What if the root is almost as wide as the pot itself. Seems like it’s the trunk. Imagine a pizza lol there’s probably 3 slices of fine root but the rest of the root mass is this trunk like root.

 

[Dav4]

What if the root is almost as wide as the pot itself. Seems like it’s the trunk. Imagine a pizza lol there’s probably 3 slices of fine root but the rest of the root mass is this trunk like root.

Pics of the offending root section would definitely help. With that being said, you need to sequentially reduce this one large root at each re-pot if that's what's needed to move the tree forward. The key, obviously, is to leave enough roots elsewhere to assure the tree continues to grow well. I tend to be very aggressive with root work on otherwise healthy JBP that need drastic root reduction. My favorite too to use is a hand saw or sawzall depending on the situation. With large roots, I try to cut back hard but leave some smaller roots closer to the trunk, then rinse and repeat at the next repot until you've achieved your goal.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

In the spring, I’d use a saw and cut the rootball by half, then dig out all field soil from under the trunk and plant it in a shallower pot. Thr following year, start getting the rest of the field soil out.

 

[Ming dynasty]

Saw/sawzall seems to be the weapon of choice. Bjorn said the same thing today. I was afraid of the pumice/lava damaging the saw teeth. I’ll give that a try this upcoming spring. Thank you everyone!!

 

[Ming dynasty]

In the spring, I’d use a saw and cut the rootball by half, then dig out all field soil from under the trunk and plant it in a shallower pot. Thr following year, start getting the rest of the field soil out.

Hi Brian, what do you think of Ryan’s method? I think he removes the center root mass then the outer ring next repot.

 

[PerryB]

Saw/sawzall seems to be the weapon of choice. Bjorn said the same thing today. I was afraid of the pumice/lava damaging the saw teeth. I’ll give that a try this upcoming spring. Thank you everyone!!

If you use a Sawzall, the blades are disposable and if you buy the tungsten demolition blades, the pumice/grit/rocks will just be obliterated!

 

[Ming dynasty]

If you use a Sawzall, the blades are disposable and if you buy the tungsten demolition blades, the pumice/grit/rocks will just be obliterated!

Thank you, I’ll look out for those blades

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Hi Brian, what do you think of Ryan’s method? I think he removes the center root mass then the outer ring next repot.

Sounds about the same as what I suggested, but I haven‘t watched any of his stuff.

 

[roberthu]

Hi Brian, what do you think of Ryan’s method? I think he removes the center root mass then the outer ring next repot.

I thought he always removed the outer layer first then move into the center mass after the tree gets vigorous.

 

[Ming dynasty]

I thought he always removed the outer layer first then move into the center mass after the tree gets vigorous.

You might be right, saw the video awhile back.

 

[Ming dynasty]

I think the tree is done. Can anyone offer some false hope lol?

Bought this JBP October 2022. The tree was perfectly fine, not fault of seller at all.
Fed and allowed it to grow until the repot in March 2023.
Tree was super healthy when repot.
Due to large roots and lack of experience, I only remove 1/3 as much as I’d like to. Left the shin untouched. Then, I put it in nursery pot with 100% pumice. Tree flushed out like it supposed to.
Late May 2023, noticed some browning all over. Treated with mancozeb then 1-2weeks later daconil. Also moved it out of full sun to a location that receive sunlight until 1pm
Early July 2023, storm knocked it off my bench and displaced the tree and soil from pot. Fixed that mishap and moved it to morning sun location until 12ish.
I was gone all week since last Saturday and had my father take over watering duty. From what I can see from security camera, he was doing a decent job. I doubt this started this week. I’m sure it was from the wind storm day/repot.
Extremely hurt over this. This was my “the tree”. Spent more than all the other trees combine on this one. Would love some advice! I’m hoping that it’s summer dormancy but highly doubt it. I’m thinking about building a wooden box and put it in. Thank you y’all, have a great tree care day!

 

[Srt8madness]

RIP, sorry to hear

 

[roberthu]

The football looks challenging to water through…. Sorry for your loss

 

[Dav4]

I really have no idea what was done at the original repot but from those last two pictures, it essentially looks like the tree is sitting in a pot with 2 completely different soil types… the original soil mass looks very organic/ peat heavy while the outer layer is large grained pumice. This situation poses great difficulties in watering as the water will move rapidly through the outer layer while barely wetting the peat, which will dry further and eventually become hydrophobic. When I repot trees in peat based soil, I tend to be very aggressive removing the soil from the entire periphery of the root ball as well as under the base. I’ll leave lots of bare rooted roots in these areas and then have the new aggregate soil worked into them. Doing this assures that there are adequate roots in both types of soil. Fwiw, my plan with that material would have been to saw the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the root ball off then bare root 50% of the remaining root mass so I could work my aggregate soil into the bare rooted portion.

 

[Shibui]

I’m hoping that it’s summer dormancy

JBP do not usually have summer dormancy. Decline is almost certainly a result of the repot unfortunately. It often takes months for conifers to show signs. The thicker the trunk the more reserves they have to flush and grow in spring and everything looks great but when no new roots have grown and reserves run low death is inevitable.
I concur with everything @Dav4 has posted above.