Thoughts on this Japanese Maple

[CuriousLayman]

I purchased this japanese maple from Brent at evergreen garden works. I don't even have it yet. I was thinking I'd make it shorter by layering off the top. Any thoughts on that? I don't know the exact height but the trunk is 1 1/4 caliper. Any thoughts on how to approach this one?

 

[sorce]

I think everything in that curve should go if you were to use the whole tree.....

Which would leave little to work with.

I would consider a chop at yellow and using the green as new lead.


Sorce

 

[Dav4]

Well, why did you buy the tree? What do you like about it? Do you have a vision for it?

If this were my tree, I wouldn't chop it as I like the movement in the trunk. I'd want to grow it out for a few years (I like bigger, more substantial trunks) and get the nebari where it needs to be. That would mean bare rooting it this spring and reducing the root ball to achieve the best 360 degree rootage the tree currently has to offer. Then, I'd either screw a board to the bottom of the trunk ala http://www.bonsainut.com/threads/ebihara-maples.18215/ and then I'd either place it in a larger wooden box or in the ground, with the goal of working the roots every year or two. Good luck with it and have fun.

 

[CuriousLayman]

Well, why did you buy the tree? What do you like about it? Do you have a vision for it?

Thanks for the feedback Dav4. As far as the questions above go: I liked the movement overall on it and it was in my price range. I realize I said "make it shorter" above, but I'm torn on that. My concern is with the trunk girth to height ratio. So I was thinking that making it a bit shorter would help with that. My thought was to cut or layer at the bottom of that bare section toward the top. Then to try to grow an apex. But of course I have no idea what I'm doing . As far as trunking it up: it's a good idea. I have another tree that I chopped from a landscape that I'll be doing that with. I plan to keep this one smaller and just have fun working on it.

 

[JudyB]

I like the movement in the trunk, if you chop it, you'll cut off that charming part. Wait till you see it in person, and take photos from all sides. I tend to like taller elegant maples, so I'd work with most of this tree, I might take the very top part off, where the bark changes, as it's too straight and taperless from the big curve to the top.

 

[CuriousLayman]

I like the movement in the trunk, if you chop it, you'll cut off that charming part. Wait till you see it in person, and take photos from all sides. I tend to like taller elegant maples, so I'd work with most of this tree, I might take the very top part off, where the bark changes, as it's too straight and taperless from the big curve to the top.

Thanks Judy. That's what I was trying to say: remove the straight part at the very top.

 

[Eric Group]

I would remove the first two branches... they come off at poor angles from the inside of a curve... if that first branch were about an inch or two lower, it might be better... hard to visualize without photoshopping it but I am a bit too lazy for that...

Dave made a good recommendation on how to proceed though- bare root, plant in a board and let it get bigger! This will give you a better trunk, better roots and after a couple years a MUCH better tree!!

 

[CuriousLayman]

Perhaps a silly question: How does one size a grow box? If I build one and went the route Dave recommended, how do you decide how big to build it? Is it a case of "the bigger the better", growth wise?

 

[Eric Group]

Perhaps a silly question: How does one size a grow box? If I build one and went the route Dave recommended, how do you decide how big to build it? Is it a case of "the bigger the better", growth wise?

Generally yes... you are sort of trying to mimic ground growing which allows roots to grow almost unchecked which in turn should allow for almost unlimited top growth... the box should be pretty large but most do not make them that deep which encourages roots to grow sideways instead of down.

 

[Dav4]

Perhaps a silly question: How does one size a grow box? If I build one and went the route Dave recommended, how do you decide how big to build it? Is it a case of "the bigger the better", growth wise?

Just guessing, but I'd think an Anderson flat-http://www.andersonpots.com/products/anderson-flats/ , maybe 16" x 16", would be ok for this tree, though maybe a bit big. If you can get your hands on one, you can make the functional size of the pot smaller by placing pieces of Styrofoam along the inside edge of the flat.

 

[Underdog]

functional size of the pot smaller by placing pieces of Styrofoam along the inside edge of the flat.

Great idea! Never thought of that.

 

[Lars Grimm]

I think the challenge with this tree is that it is relatively straight lower down but then has a much greater curvature higher up. Doing a chop where @sorce suggests and then letting it grow out some to smooth out the curvature and give some taper might be your best bet.