Repotting Sekka Hinoki

[opus1]

Hello all, it's been a while since I last posted here.

I'd like to share the current status of some of my Sekka Hinoki trees.


The first three pictures show the transformation from when I first got it until now.

The fourth and fifth ones are trees that I plan to maintain without any special interventions for this year.


The pictures from the sixth one to the eleventh show a tree I recently got.

Recognizing the need for several operations to achieve a higher level of completion, I repotted it into a larger pot. These images document that process.


The last picture is from last Christmas season, featuring Christmas lights with my Sekka Hinokis.


Any advice or questions regarding the trees are welcome~

Thank you for taking a look!

 

[JudyB]

Very nice!

 

[RODERLO]

This one is freakin’ awesome. Having it’s branches positioned like a deciduous tree combined with the miniature foliage size makes it look like a life size tree!

 

[opus1]

This one is freakin’ awesome. Having it’s branches positioned like a deciduous tree combined with the miniature foliage size makes it look like a life size tree!

View attachment 535781

That's one of my favorite trees. My goal is to make it look like the Bonsai in the attached photo.

 

[WavyGaby]

Awesome inspiration for the one I'm growing!

 

[Bill Florence]

Hello all, it's been a while since I last posted here.

I'd like to share the current status of some of my Sekka Hinoki trees.


The first three pictures show the transformation from when I first got it until now.

The fourth and fifth ones are trees that I plan to maintain without any special interventions for this year.


The pictures from the sixth one to the eleventh show a tree I recently got.

Recognizing the need for several operations to achieve a higher level of completion, I repotted it into a larger pot. These images document that process.


The last picture is from last Christmas season, featuring Christmas lights with my Sekka Hinokis.


Any advice or questions regarding the trees are welcome~

Thank you for taking a look!

What spring work for hinoki

 

[ForrestW]

Very nice! I have a few small ones but far from that developed. Thanks for sharing

 

[Bill Florence]

What spring work for hinoki

 

[opus1]

Today I worked on wiring one of my Sekka Hinoki.



Before :







After :





It's far from perfection, but I anticipate it will take about 4 to 5 years to reach my personal goal.

 

[opus1]

As the wires began to dig into the branches of the Sekka Hinoki, I removed them and rewired.



Before & After removing wires :





After rewiring :




And I did some trimming on this tree :
.

 

[RODERLO]

Very nice specimens! I am very eager to see your final vision come to life in a couple of years.
In the meantime, would you consider providing a brief care guide?
There is not a lot of info on sekka’s and I am trying to grow mine from a small cutting into a size similar to yours.
But it seems to lose more foliage than it’s putting on lately.

Any pointers how to make sekka’s grow vigorously?

 

[opus1]

Very nice specimens! I am very eager to see your final vision come to life in a couple of years.
In the meantime, would you consider providing a brief care guide?
There is not a lot of info on sekka’s and I am trying to grow mine from a small cutting into a size similar to yours.
But it seems to lose more foliage than it’s putting on lately.

Any pointers how to make sekka’s grow vigorously?

*Sekka Hinoki Care Tips :

There's nothing particularly unique ways for Sekka Hinoki! I treat all other trees in the same way.



- Light : It prefers bright light. Prolonged exposure to low or no sunlight can result in loss of luster and browning of leaves.


- Air : It's best to place it where there's good airflow for proper respiration. While wiring mainly aims to shape the tree, it also encourages airflow and sunlight to reach every part, stimulating new leaf growth and promoting overall tree health.


- Water : Ensure it's generously watered. If using well-draining soil, there's no need to worry about overwatering. If leaves are damaged due to a lack of water, remove them, water generously, and place the plant in a bright area. Slow growth doesn't mean it requires less water; make sure to provide enough water.

In my case, I water my bonsai trees twice a day in summer (morning & afternoon), once in spring/fall (morning), and every 2-3 days in winter (on clear mornings).


- Pot: While it's ideal for the pot to match the size of the mature tree, in most cases, I prefer larger pots. This encourages maximum root development to ensure steady growth, as Sekka Hinoki tends to grow slowly.
I use well-draining soil, and sprinkle some Osmocote on top of the soil from spring to summer to promote healthy growth.

 

[RODERLO]

*Sekka Hinoki Care Tips :

There's nothing particularly unique ways for Sekka Hinoki! I treat all other trees in the same way.



- Light : It prefers bright light. Prolonged exposure to low or no sunlight can result in loss of luster and browning of leaves.


- Air : It's best to place it where there's good airflow for proper respiration. While wiring mainly aims to shape the tree, it also encourages airflow and sunlight to reach every part, stimulating new leaf growth and promoting overall tree health.


- Water : Ensure it's generously watered. If using well-draining soil, there's no need to worry about overwatering. If leaves are damaged due to a lack of water, remove them, water generously, and place the plant in a bright area. Slow growth doesn't mean it requires less water; make sure to provide enough water.

In my case, I water my bonsai trees twice a day in summer (morning & afternoon), once in spring/fall (morning), and every 2-3 days in winter (on clear mornings).


- Pot: While it's ideal for the pot to match the size of the mature tree, in most cases, I prefer larger pots. This encourages maximum root development to ensure steady growth, as Sekka Hinoki tends to grow slowly.
I use well-draining soil, and sprinkle some Osmocote on top of the soil from spring to summer to promote healthy growth.

That’s perfect, thank you very much!
I may need to move mine to a brighter spot and wire the branches outwards so light can get to the interior.
What are your recommendations for the soil mix?

 

[opus1]

That’s perfect, thank you very much!
I may need to move mine to a brighter spot and wire the branches outwards so light can get to the interior.
What are your recommendations for the soil mix?

First, install a mesh at the bottom of the pot to prevent soil loss.




Then, arrange soil as shown in the drawing below.


You won't need to use Pumice if you use shallow pots (less than 2').



Of course, there may be better compositions, but you can't go wrong if you do it this way.

Personally, I use cost-effective substitute soils made in Korea.

I haven't looked into what alternatives are available in the States.

And every 2-3 years, replace the soil, or replace both the soil and the pot if the plant has grown larger.

 

[opus1]

(There was a typo on the CAD drawing : inches of thick -> inches thick)


Over time, as the soil components decompose into a mud-like consistency, root decay can occur.

Certain trees may start to wither and die without any apparent reason. When you remove them from the pot, you might find that deep-rooted soil or roots are rotten with a dark color. In such cases, you should wash away both the rotten roots and soil and replace them with fresh soil.

 

[RODERLO]

Superb explanation once again @opus1.

Thank you.

The obvious question is: why separate the akadama and pumice into layers instead of mixing them? My guess is that sekka like damp soil at all times then? Pumice layer is purely to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged?

Also, I’ve always understood that shallow pots have a greater risk of retaining excess water. Wouldn’t you therefore want pumice in a shallow pot as well?

 

[MGTT]

Hi @opus1.

With respect to sun exposure, can you give information on the temperature and humidity levels your trees experience in all the seasons?

(I’m trying to correlate your conditions to my location)

Thanks for your previous info - very useful!!

 

[opus1]

Superb explanation once again @opus1.

Thank you.

The obvious question is: why separate the akadama and pumice into layers instead of mixing them? My guess is that sekka like damp soil at all times then? Pumice layer is purely to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged?

Also, I’ve always understood that shallow pots have a greater risk of retaining excess water. Wouldn’t you therefore want pumice in a shallow pot as well?

Exactly! @JRBonsai

The reason for adding Pumice to the bottom is to prevent the pot from becoming clogged like mud over time, as soil disperses and various external substances accumulate on the bottom of the pot.

Personally, the reason I don't put pumice in shallow pots is because it reduces the amount of soil. Instead, I opt to replace the soil more frequently (once every 1-2 years).

There must be a better method than the one I use. Just consider my method as a reference.

Hi @opus1.

With respect to sun exposure, can you give information on the temperature and humidity levels your trees experience in all the seasons?

(I’m trying to correlate your conditions to my location)

Thanks for your previous info - very useful!!

Thank you @MGTT,

I hope you find the following link helpful for information on South Korea's weather:

https://www.worlddata.info/asia/south-korea/climate-seoul.php

The regional climate differences in Korea are not as pronounced as in the United States (the area of the United States is 98 times that of South Korea).

Because of the cold and dryness in winter, most bonsai in Korea are grown in greenhouses.

 

[MGTT]

@opus1 -Thanks!