At what time to remove top on my larch?

[raffaelbaer]

So I'm revisiting my larch project,

And I was wondering as when I shall remove the top growth part (red part + the main stem) till my leader (blue branch).



My thoughts were:

1. Leave it to grow and don't cut it, since then I get more thickening on my trunk which is wanted... however then later having to deal with the large wound, that the new leader (blue) has to catch up to...

2. Cut it in around 2-3 years for sort of a middle way of wound size and aiding in thickening, then the further benefits of step 3 of course after I cut it.

3. Cut it next spring, seal it, in hopes of lower branches emerging to locally thicken the trunk where wanted... Cut scar wouldn't also be so large, new leader (blue) can then also develop further. Because on the apically dominant larches the upper branch which is currently still there would thicken more

Further thoughts on why I think Option 3 would be best personally,

Small chop scar as trunk is not as thick and can heal easier

New leader can develop more rapidly

More local branches to work with and also thickening the trunk further

Not having to "feed" the top half of the tree which is later gonna be removed anyways...


What would be you're option you would take for this tree?

For information this is somewhat what the tree should look like in maybe 10 years...
(I also drew in the leader, in the winter picture!)



Thanks for any help!

Cheers
Raffael

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

You can use any side branch as an escape branch to thicken the trunk.
If you want to avoid large cuts, I'd chop it rather sooner than later.

 

[August44]

You can use any side branch as an escape branch to thicken the trunk.
If you want to avoid large cuts, I'd chop it rather sooner than later.

So wires, when is the best time to chop a larch like this? I had a dual trunk larch once where I wanted to chop the smaller one down a bit. I did that and the whole side died almost immediately. I think it was in mid-late summer.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

@August44 I think in later in fall, after the foliage goes yellow would be a good time. The sap stream slows down then, and winter resources have been filled up. It can then redistribute sap flow to live parts and compartmentalize the wound. That sounds logical, but I'm not sure if larch is logical.

To be honest, larch isn't my forte. So take my statement with a grain of salt. That's why I was only specific in the design choice (to prevent swelling and keep a nice taper to the apex) and not the design timing. It could very well be that the best time would be in spring instead.

 

[Dogestoevsky]

Larch is fussy about big chops and root disturbance once the sap is flowing. Yours is young so I’m sure it will tolerate most anything… but for best chance of health I would plan to remove that top section this coming winter during dormancy.

You don’t have much taper, so be proactive in leaving airspace for those lowest branches. Good luck!

 

[Gabler]

For what it's worth, I would grow out the yellow branches as sacrifice branches, keep the purple, and chop at the orange. Take that with a grain of salt, since I'm looking at the tree in a 2D image. I'm also not an expert larch grower. I'm just offering very general advice.

 

[JeffS73]

Guy wire down the current leader so that the blue one becomes apically dominant. This keeps you an additional sacrifice branch. An inch wide cut has healed on my larch in one season, so I don't think you need to worry yet.

 

[RKatzin]

If I were growing this tree, I would let it grow on for another five years at least before I started worrying about where to chop and crop. Let the tree show you it's potential.
I don't put a lot of account on sacrifice branches thickening the trunk although they do some, what really builds a trunk is necessity. The need to support and maintain the extending top of the tree.
Focus your attention on the roots as it grows, establishing a nice radial spread and developing lots of fine feeders. Although this is a conifer, it's also a deciduous tree and I treat them just like any other deciduous tree

 

[leatherback]

I am with @RKatzin . This is ababy in bonsai terms. Let it fatten up. A healthy Larch closes all cuts you dare to make, and you will have trouble it NOT closing a wound.

Make sure you grow the trunk thickness and add taper by repeated chops. For all other branches, hold back growth as back-budding is very rare.

 

[shohin_branches]

Growing the new lead and letting it thicken will help close up the wound once you chop. Let this one keep going