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Thread: Pyracantha Overwinter Care

  1. #11
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    My pyracantha spent the entire winter outside here in my covered cold house. It never fell below 30 in there though all winter.

    Ben

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    fore (July 12th, 2013)

  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by fore View Post
    Then I guess I'm back to bringing it into the basement on really cold nights. I was hoping to hear it'd do ok during our winters here, zone 5. As I read here, http://www.hort.uconn.edu/plants/p/pyrcoc/pyrcoc1.html that it's zone 5-6. It does just fine year round here in the ground, so it must be the roots in a pot that makes it susceptible. Heck, maybe I should just put the pot in the ground, covered in mulch, inside the hoop house. Probable be the easiest and most protective.
    Not for a pyracantha, but this method has been a good one for me overall, you just are at the mercy of the ground thawing out,to get your trees in the spring.
    If you lend someone $20 and never see that person again, it
    was probably worth it.

    Never test the depth of the water with both feet..

    Enjoy this day,
    Bill - aka Mcspeed

  4. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill S View Post
    Not for a pyracantha, but this method has been a good one for me overall, you just are at the mercy of the ground thawing out, to get your trees in the spring.
    Well Bill, you're leaving me with little options lol I'll have to bury it and come march/april dig it up, and then just keep in hoop house. I hope the material is worth all the trouble now!
    Chris

  5. #14
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    If the parent tree survived Chicago winters, it's a safe bet the layer will too. The genus Pyracantha includes a large number of cultivars/varieties; many that do well in cold climates. I collected mine on the MS coast, but has done fine with little protection when outside temps dipped into the lower teens for a few nights at a time.

    Time the separation so the new roots are well formed, but still have 6-8 weeks to establish themselves on their own before freezing temps. When you do separate, do nothing more than slip the undisturbed root mass into a slightly larger pot, and gently add bonsai soil. A variety that lives in your area should be fine overwintering in a hoop house.

    Next year, let it grow unchecked, letting the roots escape out of the pot and into the ground if possible...they do grow hard, and it will be ready for anything you throw at it by 2015.

  6. #15
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    Thank You Brian! I was getting a bit worried lol And you're correct, the mother plant is huge in the ground and does fine with the winters here. Well if you let yours get to the teens for a few nights the rootball froze and it still did fine. Excellent news!

    I watered it yesterday and dug around to look for roots, they are there, but still only 1" long. And I did this in May. We don't get freezing temps till around Thanksgiving, so I have till 10/3 for an 8 wk window. There should be tons of roots by then. And I had planned on a simple slip pot. Putting on ground is a good idea!

    Overall, it's got very good trunk movement, but is only about 2"W. After seeing yours again Brian, I wish I could dig up the entire tree as the base is absol. killer. One thing at a time lol
    Chris

  7. #16
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    That's good news, I just got mine so we will find out. I will probably overwinter on my 3 season closed in breezeway, it will get the cold, but I can control how bad it gets. I was going on info I got from the nursery, but I find that the info I get is a bit conservative I think, as I usually end up colder than I was told the trees like to handle. Serrissa is like this, they like a frost or three before being put away for the winter.
    If you lend someone $20 and never see that person again, it
    was probably worth it.

    Never test the depth of the water with both feet..

    Enjoy this day,
    Bill - aka Mcspeed

  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill S View Post
    That's good news, I just got mine so we will find out. I will probably overwinter on my 3 season closed in breezeway, it will get the cold, but I can control how bad it gets. I was going on info I got from the nursery, but I find that the info I get is a bit conservative I think, as I usually end up colder than I was told the trees like to handle. Serrissa is like this, they like a frost or three before being put away for the winter.
    Well Good Luck with yours Bill! Nice to have a protected breezeway too
    Chris

  9. #18
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    Hey...threads like this without pictures is just well....words!!

    Come on, share.

    I'll show you mine if you show me yours?

    This was before on March 17.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. The following user says thank you to Smoke for this post:

    tmmason10 (July 26th, 2013)

  11. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smoke View Post
    Hey...threads like this without pictures is just well....words!!

    Come on, share.

    I'll show you mine if you show me yours?

    This was before on March 17.
    Sorry Al, I totally missed your post. I have no pictures, but tom I have to go water it and I'll shoot some pics. I have noticed that it takes it's time putting out new roots.
    Chris

  12. #20
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    I dug up a multi-trunk pyracantha this spring that I'm hoping to use for a clump/raft style. I didn't get many fine roots when I dug despite "preparing" the tree last summer by digging around/under the root system. However, it is growing strongly, both top and root growth. I was planning on just over-wintering with my other hardy trees, in an enclosed mini-greenhouse inside my barn. I use a thermostat and space heater to keep it at about 27-28 deg.

    Not sure which cultivar it is, perhaps mohave...but it had been growing in the landscape here for about 8 years, so I know it's winter hardy in the ground. Anyone think my over-wintering plan won't work for pyracantha? I know it's not an air layer like the subject of this thread, but the root mass this winter will consist of mostly new, fine growth...so perhaps not quite as hardy as a more established specimen.

    Chris

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